Italian alpinist Simone Moro is amongst the best high altitude mountaineers in the world today. His list of accomplishments include multiple summits of Everest and Lhotse, as well as the first winter ascents on Shisha Pangma, Makalu and Gasherbrum II, amongst others. Recently National Geographic Adventure caught up with Simone for a brief interview, which you can read by here.
In the interview, which is conducted by Freddie Wilkinson who is no slouch of a climber either, Moro discusses his recent efforts to launch a climbing school in the Karakoram, his thoughts on the use of supplemental oxygen on the world's tallest mountains and his epic traverse of Everest. On that expedition Simone climbed up the South Side of the mountain in Nepal but descended on the North Side into Tibet, where he received a fine from the Chinese for making an illegal climb. He completed that adventure without the assistance of guides or Sherpas no less.
The interview itself isn't particularly long, but there are a lot insights to be gained from it. Simone is an interesting guy and he obviously knows a lot about mountaineering. He has made some of the most difficult climbs ever and seems to thrive on suffering. He also seems to favor winter climbs on the big peaks as the crowds are far smaller and the challenges are bigger.
Definitely worth a read if you're interested in high altitude climbing.