Food & Drink Magazine

Review: The Cross Kenilworth Revisited

By Thefoodiecoupleblog

The Cross in Kenilworth is a really fantastic pub. We’ve visited The Cross a couple of times before, but not since they were awarded that prestigious Michelin Star at the back end of last year. We booked at short notice and were lucky to find they had tables still on a Friday Night.

We started with a G&T in the bar whilst looking over the menus. As well as their A La Carte Menu, they now offer a 5 course tasting menu, priced at £65pp and at lunchtime an excellently priced menu at 3 courses for £25! We stuck to the A La Carte as we were both drawn to one of the mains instantly and couldn’t not order it!

I started with Cornish Crab Soup, Saffron rouille, Crab on toast. The depth of flavor in this was fantastic; rich creamy and well, just dreamy really! The addition of a little sourdough crisp topped with the lightest of white crab meat made it immaculate. One of those 10/10 dishes that are pretty rare really and my favorite course of the night.

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Lee went for the Crispy Duck Egg Morels & Asparagus. A similar dish to that which he had on our very first visit there. Again he could find no fault and adored the dish. Classic flavours and the best of ingredients all cooked with the utmost precision.

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That main course that drew us both in and wouldn’t let go was the Wiltshire Pork – Slow cooked belly and cheek, black pudding, new season onions, lovage, pickled apple. 

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The standout elements were the belly itself, the delicious tart pickled apples, charred onions and the unusual but moreish lovage puree. If we were to have a little quibble, the little pot of mash that was served on the side was a bit ‘tepid’. So far so good, it was definitely living up to, if not surpassing our memories.

I loved the sound of an old school Floating Island for dessert with Caramel ice cream, Crystalized almonds, Vanilla sauce. The poached meringue was remarkably light and the caramel ice cream and sauce taken just to the edge of burnt to give that perfect slightly bitter flavor. Lee chose the Yorkshire Rhubarb Trifle Cardamom and saffron, rhubarb sorbet. I nabbed a little of this (as usual!) and can confirm it was another light dessert, packed with flavor. The rhubarb sorbet was sublime.

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Petits fours arrived (and yes, there’s one missing in the pic – blame Lee and his sticky mitts getting in before the photo!)  to accompany our tea and coffee which rounded off another beautiful meal at The Cross. 

One to certainly go out of your way for :)

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Disclosure: We paid in full for our meal. 


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