My first introduction to the classic blend of Herbes de Provence was is the early seventies, when my hippie sister came home from college having learned to make a very sophisticated (at least to my young and adoring eyes) French dish, known as Ratatouille. I remember that first day so well, she was standing over my mothers stove and she looked like kitchen goddess, surrounded by piles of beautifully diced vegetables, a bottle of extra virgin olive oil (mind you, in the 70’s that wasn’t as easy to come by which added of course to the perfect allure of the moment!) a wooden spoon, sea salt and pepper grinders and a ceramic jar that contained the most magical combination of aromas hat I’d ever smelled to that point. I remember her recipe perfectly and truth be told it’s a good one. Most make ratatouille by throwing all of the vegetables in a pot and cooking them all together slowly.
My sisters ratatouille was different, because she added the vegetables one at a time. This way she produced a layering of flavor that cannot be accomplished by just impertinently throwing everything together and letting the whole thing quickly cook. It was one of those classic moments between sisters, where I just watched , listened and absorbed what she was teaching me. It took hours which I measured in in tastes and laughter. It was the perfect way to pass on such a recipe. I love to make this in the wintertime, because it turns my kitchen into the sunniest place in the house. The fragrance is remarkable and the flavor sublime. Layered into a tart shell and topped with fresh parmesan and a turn under the broiler you have a perfect supper when paired with a salad and a crusty loaf of bread. A few tablespoons of this on top of a grilled chicken breast or a piece of fresh tuna will transport you instantly to the South of France.
In a moment I’ll walk you through the recipe. If it’s not the best you’ve ever tasted I ‘ll be surprised. I still love it and it’s one of those perfect dishes for a day when you’ve got a little extra time and a lot of lovely white Bordeaux. This is a two glass dish…one to sip while you’re cooking and one to sip while you’re eating. It’s a lovely way to spend an afternoon! The secret is the slow cooking over the low flame and of course the herbs….Herbe’s de Provence to be more precise or as I love to refer to them as the scent of Paris in a bottle.
Classic Herbe’s de Provence as we know it is a mixture of Savory, Fennel, Basil ,Thyme, chervil and lavender flowers with a bit of dill , although I am told that there are many different variations depending upon whose Grandmere you’re speaking to! Because I always have these herbs growing fresh in my gardens I play with the combinations myself, sometimes adding a little more dill or a bit of rosemary, according to what I am cooking. Traditionally I love to use this blend to flavor grilled fish or lamb and it’s absolutely delicious when blended into butter with a bit of garlic to be tucked under the skin of a roasting chicken. It’s an integral part of my beef stew recipe and a perfect blend of seasonings to be whisked into a bit of homemade mayonnaise for a tuna, salmon or chicken salad. It’s fun to make your own Herbe’s de Provence, but fortunately you can buy it at many places and still even in that fancy little ceramic pot with the wooden spoon attached. My current favorite of the dried blends though is the one that I buy from Penzeys Spices. It seem to have just the right balance of lavender to dill and it’s so fresh that it never disappoints. Try it and let me know what you think! I also love to scent my soup stocks with a bouquet garni of these fresh herbs. Just take the long stalks and tie them together with some kitchen string. Place them into the pot and remove them when you strain the stock. This is a fabulous way to infuse the fragrance and flavor into the soup without having all of those messy bits floating around. I've also been know to infuse these herbs in olive oil to use for wonderfully scented dressings or drizzles. If you use sweet almond oil and increase the lavender and add a few drops of lavender essential oil it makes a massage oil one that's really relaxing and fabulous for tonifying the lymphatic system!
But back to my sister’s magical recipe. First things first ; You must begin with a good cast iron pot a wooden spoon (and a frilly apron!) and the vegetables already cubed. You’ll need eggplant, tomatoes, onions, mushrooms, green, red and yellow peppers and green and yellow zucchini. Make sure to have your first glass of chilled white wine handy and a lovely runny piece of brie and a toasted baguette…cliché maybe, perfect YES! Liberally lace the pot with about 4 tablespoons of olive oil and bring up the heat. Add about 6 cloves of minced garlic and stir gently, allowing the garlic to softly infuse the oil but not burn. Then add the onions, sip the wine and cook them gently for about 10 minutes. Then add the eggplant, the juice of one fresh lemon and a bit of sea salt. Allow the eggplant to cook until translucent (about 15 minutes) enjoy another sip and then add the tomatoes which you will have pressed quite a lot of the juice out of. Stir gently and allow the whole things to just blend for about 10 more minutes and then add the mushrooms, stir and continue sautéing for another 5 minutes while enjoying another sip and a bite of brie!
Add the peppers and do the same and then the zucchini goes in last. You can add more olive oil whenever you think that it’s needed and by now you’ve begun to have a lovely vegetable stew. At this point, add one cup of good white wine, a large knob of grass fed butter 2 more cloves of minced garlic and some more salt and pepper to taste. Take another sip and dunk a bit of the baguette into the stew and enjoy. Cook the Ratatouille gently for about another 10 minutes, stirring continuously. Then add 3 tablespoons of your favorite Herbes de Provence blend and let the whole thing cook gently until the wine has evaporated and what’s left is just a perfect blend of lusciousness.Then take about 3 handful of fresh genovese basil leaves and stir in. Let the whole thing just sit for a few moments. Enjoy another sip of your wine and take a piece of the baguette, spread it with the brie and about 2 tablespoons of the ratatouille. Breathe deeply, imagine that you're sitting in the sunshine…Chew hungrily… swallow… Need I say more? Now let's have a little fun!
Now that I've made you completely hungry, why don't you float West towards Roxana Villa's lovely home in the hills adjacent to the sunny California coastline. She'll be waiting there for you with her bees and some lovely scented surprises.
