Destinations Magazine

Ze in the 6th: Still Surprises.

By Johntalbott

Septoct 12 031We returned to Ze Kitchen Galerie in the 6th which loyal readers, friends and enemies are tired of me talking about.  But it and its menu are ever-changing and delightful.

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They started us off with bread, which lead us into a long discussion of exterior crustiness vs interior moistness with our old friends from the internet and Paris; olive oil (a first after 11 years); champagne (disclosure: I don't think our genial host, Cédric Maréchal, who except for Mondays can usually be found at KGB, charged us, but since I didn't see the bill, which was picked up by our generous friends/companions, I dunno); and amuse-gueules of bass, tarama and citrus.  We then started working on a bottle of Costieres de Nimes.

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Then Colette had artichoke ravioli with crescenza, tomato marmelade, ginger and herbs; M. had the moules, crevettes, corail condiment and saffron; Madame the crab boullion, crevettes, agrumes and miso condiment; and I had the Thai bouillion with white beans and a soubressade condiment.

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Then Colette had the salmon with fennel, beets and tomatoes; M. had the daily fish (cod) with shellfish, ginger and aioli; Madame the squid with eggplant, tomato and lemongrass condiment; and I had the (unpictured) confited, grilled, colvert duck with mostarda condiment and citrus.

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Finally Madame had the figs two ways and raisin sorbet; M. the meringue strips atop white chocolate/wasabi icecream and mangos; Colette (unpictured) had a corn/soya soup with an incredible vanilla-miso caramel and I just wept.

The bill I believe was 232 E or 112 E a couple; but as I say it was graciously and generously picked up by our friends who insisted it was a gift for the opportunity to meet the wife they weren't sure existed except as a ghost or mystery mistress.


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