Destinations Magazine

Vivant Cave in the 10th: Back to the Future (i.e., La Crémerie with a Hint of Racines.)

By Johntalbott

5.0 Vivant Cave, 43 Rue des Petites Ecuries in the 10th, 01.42.46.43.55, closed weekends (Metro: Poisonierre) opened September 15th and when I looked in the week before I couldn't imagine it would be up and running so soon.  But it was and is.

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My friend Paga and I went today, his wife ailing, and it was probably just as well, there being much more for "boys" to eat than "girls."

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Since I am somewhat known to the house of Jancou, they asked what wine we wished to start off with:  Boy, no wine list, only bottles in glass cases, well; "a red eh?;" "strong or with finesse?;" "strong."  But by the way you've got one labelled "In Extremis, is it dead or just very sick?" say I, trying to be witty.  No response except "I'll bring you a taste" - PS it was actually not on its last legs or dead, it was quite alive.  Anyway, they also served the Corbieres La Sorga with a plate of incredibly fine coppa - just like Jancou did at the old long forgotten Crémerie near Metro Odeon.

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For firsts, Paga had an absolutely first-rate salad of tender pulpe and I the grilled artichoke quarters with carrot and raddish slices, and a fiery pepper sauce - whoa what a start.

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Then we both had the stracotto, which my friend informed me, never having heard of it or at least retained a memory of such - was an italian pot roast.  Well that sounded good but I'd forgotten that the French love to cook the deuce out of beef, leaving the meat dry and tough and the sauce full of its flavor.  Yup.  But the root vegetables, which Jancou made famous at Racines, were superb with said rich juices.  To terminate we polished off a slice of what was supposed to be St Nectaire but I don't think was - it was excellant, whatever it was.

Our bill with a bottle of wine, no bottled water and two coffees was 91 E.


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