Behan Gifford
I live on a boat with my husband and three children. We left our home in the USA in 2008 for sailing adventures.
MY BLOGS
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Sailing with Totem
http://sv-totem.blogspot.com/
Our family of five lives and travels on our sailboat, Totem. We write about the places we visit, our traveling lifestyle, homeschooling afload, and the adventures we have along the way.
LATEST ARTICLES ( 537 )
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Sailing South from Nosy Be, Madagascar
Sailing south from Nosy Be, we take a path with longer days and fewer stops so we can reach a beautiful destination, Moromba Bay, with time to linger before... Read more
Posted on 19 October 2015 FAMILY, OUTDOORS, SEA, TRAVEL -
Keeping Current: Ocean Current Data for Passages
Ocean currents have been a significant factor for our Indian Ocean passages this year, and our upcoming passage to South Africa is no exception. Read more
Posted on 15 October 2015 FAMILY, OUTDOORS, SEA, TRAVEL -
Scenes from Mahajanga, Madagascar
Mahajanga was an unexpectedly interesting stop – as was the Katsepy anchorage adjacent. There’s a lot more I wanted to share than I could fit into the last post... Read more
Posted on 14 October 2015 FAMILY, OUTDOORS, SEA, TRAVEL -
The Not So Perilous Port of Mahajanga, Madagascar
Don’t go to Mahajanga, they said. It’s dangerous, they said. The coconut telegraph passes information from one cruiser to the next, and typically it’s useful... Read more
Posted on 13 October 2015 FAMILY, OUTDOORS, SEA, TRAVEL -
Uniquely Madagascar: Sailing to Nosy Mitsio
Madagascar is full of experiences that that impress upon us just how unique this land is. This is about the wildlife, of course: that something like 90% of flor... Read more
Posted on 02 October 2015 FAMILY, OUTDOORS, SEA, TRAVEL -
Eating Through Madagascar
Food is so much more than sustenance, and experiencing a country and culture through food is one of the things I most look forward to in a new place. Read more
Posted on 29 September 2015 FAMILY, OUTDOORS, SEA, TRAVEL -
Lessons from a Dinghy Crisis Averted
“STAY AWAY FROM THE PROPELLER!” From below deck I heard Jamie shout from the cockpit, and froze. It was our last day in Comoros; our sixteen year old son, Niall... Read more
Posted on 25 September 2015 FAMILY, OUTDOORS, SEA, TRAVEL -
Hello Madagascar!
Madagascar! I still can’t believe we’re here and have needed to repeat it. It’s been a week since we made landfall. We might have kinda sorta not quite checked... Read more
Posted on 14 September 2015 FAMILY, OUTDOORS, SEA, TRAVEL -
Cruising the East Africa Islands of Comoros
Comoros might just be my favorite stop in the Indian Ocean. I’ll readily acknowledge that it’s on departure after a too-short stay that I’m likely to look at a... Read more
Posted on 08 September 2015 FAMILY, OUTDOORS, SEA, TRAVEL -
At Anchor in Comoros’ Moheli Marine Park
One of the draws for Comoros (outside my personal destination trifecta of minimal tourism, interesting culture, and natural beauty) is the marine park. Read more
Posted on 04 September 2015 FAMILY, OUTDOORS, SEA, TRAVEL -
Clearing into Comoros
Comoros, an island nation tucked between Mozambique and Madagascar, is the landfall I have most anticipated among our planned Indian Ocean destinations. Read more
Posted on 28 August 2015 FAMILY, OUTDOORS, SEA, TRAVEL -
Self-steering on Board
Autopilot? Windvane? Both, or hard-core hand-steering? Problems with our autopilot have caused some headaches on Totem. So why don’t we have a windvane for... Read more
Posted on 24 August 2015 FAMILY, OUTDOORS, SEA, TRAVEL -
Shelter from the Storm
We thought we’d be in the Comoros by this morning, a string of islands between Mozambique and Madagascar; instead, we’re still 240 miles away and anchored. Read more
Posted on 21 August 2015 FAMILY, OUTDOORS, SEA, TRAVEL -
Indian Ocean Cruising Bloggers
I love sharing our experiences sailing across the Indian Ocean. Along the way from Malaysia to South Africa, we’re hanging out with some other really terrific... Read more
Posted on 18 August 2015 FAMILY, OUTDOORS, SEA, TRAVEL -
Southbound from Seychelles
Finally (FINALLY) we can leave: all the packages we’ve been waiting for are on board, after 18 bus rides and enough face time to be on a first-name basis with... Read more
Posted on 16 August 2015 FAMILY, OUTDOORS, SEA, TRAVEL -
Voyaging With Kids: How to Take Your Family Cruising
How do families go cruising? What do you need to know to take your kids off on a bluewater cruising adventure? How on earth to you homeschool across an ocean?... Read more
Posted on 10 August 2015 FAMILY, OUTDOORS, SEA, TRAVEL -
Getting Mail in Seychelles
Cruising is often described as routine maintenance in exotic locations, and like many turns of phrase is well-rooted in common experience. Read more
Posted on 04 August 2015 FAMILY, OUTDOORS, SEA, TRAVEL -
How Use Less Internet Data
Before we went cruising, we took unlimited internet access for granted. Traveling full time means relying on pre-paid plans for internet, which is almost... Read more
Posted on 01 August 2015 FAMILY, OUTDOORS, SEA, TRAVEL -
Cruising Praslin Island, Seychelles
We spent much of our first month in Seychelles anchored off Victoria. With a watermaker on the fritz, it’s been helpful to be near the (very welcoming!)... Read more
Posted on 28 July 2015 FAMILY, OUTDOORS, SEA, TRAVEL -
The Best Apps for Cruising- Part II
What apps do cruisers actually use on their ipad / android to make life easier, safer, or more fun? The last post covered navigation, weather, and other apps fo... Read more
Posted on 24 July 2015 FAMILY, OUTDOORS, SEA, TRAVEL