The housing crisis in Spain is not about a lack of property, but the absence of funds to pay the rent or purchase price on homes. This has led to a large number of residential buildings unoccupied by paying tenants and dissatisfied masses unable to find jobs.While this situation is far from ideal it has had a surprising consequence in Barcelona, where okupas or squatters have taken on these premises and turned them into the hippest drinking establishments in town.
In New York, concealed entrance-ways and speakeasy-style bars have been set up in a self-conscious attempt to hark back to the days of prohibition. In Spain it has been borne out of a need to do something in light of the difficult times.
This means that they are rough around the edges, but far more authentic than their Big Apple equivalents. Cocktails are strong and the ingredients not listed anywhere, but the people who frequent these places are not concerned with such trivialities.
It is thought that there are around 40 of these makeshift bars set up in Barcelona, although the number is fluid as they are constantly being shut down by the police. They are the favorite haunts of musicians and artists with the likes of Manu Chao rumored to frequent them.
Finding a Secret Bar
If you have just flown into Barcelona it is unlikely that you will have the inside knowledge of the locals, but there are a few things you can do to help your chances of finding such a place. Firstly head to the Barrio Gotico, El Raval or Gracia neighborhoods of the city.
These are the areas where the majority of these bars can be found. Look around for signs that an underground venue might be in operation. They are often marked with elaborate paintings or graffiti, seeming to display a hidden meaning.
Look around and see if a door seems to belong to the markings and knock. There is no point in trying before 3am. The Spaniards are renowned for not getting the party started until late and the very nature of these secret bars makes them early-hours-of-the-morning kind of places.
In the past the bars have had names such as El Mariachi and El Raval, along with the likes of the Anti-Prohibition Club, harking back to the political message. But it is likely that these places are long gone with others taking up their mantel. There is no way to give specific directions to these underground gems, so ingenuity and keeping your head to the floor is the best way to find them.
What to Expect
The first underground bars of this type were set up so that okupas could make a bit of money from selling drinks while living upstairs. They were also a way of making a political statement - showing the authorities the lengths that they have been driven to.
So this is reflected in the furnishings - mismatched chairs and fairylights prettifying holes in the wall. Dull lighting and makeshift bars made from whatever is to hand all adds to the charm of these places.
A place that was particularly popular at one point was known as El Armario, which translates as the wardrobe. True to its name, visitors had to step through the piece of furniture to gain access to the tiny cramped space. Narnia it was not, but an experience never to be forgotten it certainly was.
