Monday-Tuesday, Jerome Berger in A Nous Paris, reviewed and gave 3/5 dots to the previously mentioned Greek L’Olivier in the 3rd while Philippe Toinard gave only 2 to Le Vraymonde (chef’d by Rougui Dia ex of Petrossian) in the Buddha Bar Hotel, 4, rue d’Anjou in the 8th, 01.83.96.88,88, open 7/7, serving a gigot, Jerusalem artichoke soup, mushroom tart and an apple confited with lemon grass for 29 E or 39 at lunch and 68 E at dinner.
Tuesday, in Le Fooding, Yves Nespoulous reviewed the restaurant Le BAT, 16, boulevard Montmartre in the 9th, 01.42.46.14.25, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, run by ex-KGB folks, which serves tapas and pinchos such as a tartare of beef, mostarda with aged parmesan and veal with horseraddish for 16-35 E.
In Wednesday’s Figaroscope, Emmanual Rubin awarded 3 hearts to two places, the previously mentioned Les Enfants Rouges in the 3rd and Le Pario, 54, ave Emile Zola in the 15th, 01.45.77.28.82, closed Sundays, where a Brazilian ex of the Violin d’Ingres has a menu-carte of 32 E with artichoke soup, cepes raviolis, duck and profiteroles. He then gave 2 hearts to Muxu, coordinates already given as well as one heart each to the Royal Valois in the 1st and Chinchin in the 14th.
The Dossier this week by Alice Bosio and Colette Monsat dealt with chocolatiers:
Jacques Genin
Patrick Roger
Jean-Paul Hevin
Nicolas Berger
Pierre Herme
Patrice Chapon
Nicolas Cloiseau
Jean-Charles Rochoux
Pierre Marcolini
Hugo & Victor
Without forgetting Michel Cluizel, Les Marquis de Laduree, Arnaud Lahrer, Francois Pralus, Christian Constant, Richart, Christophe Roussel, Huberty Masse & Henri Le Roux.
And Francois Simon devoted his Hache Menu to L’Huitrier, which he says to go for (201 E for two).
Thursday in L’Express, Mina Soundiram wrote up the Greek Mezze restaurant Mezz in the 10th and Francois-Regis Gaudry reviewed Le Perchoir in the 11th.
Saturday, Francois Simon wrote up Chez Fred, a Lyon-type place in the 17th (coordinates in the guidebooks) which he called France of another time.
And Sunday in the JDD Aurelie Chaigneau’s Sunday address was Richer, coordinates given before – 7.5/10) which one must assume she went to after the departure of Alexandre Giesbert for Roca in the 17th), thus it’s better than ever; her discovery of the week was La Grande Cremerie (6.5) and revisit to L’Affriole (7/10).
