Reviews of Reviews: The Week of February 24th, 2014

Monday-Tuesday in A Nous Paris, Philippe Toinard reviewed and gave 2/5 dots to the henceforth fish-serving Café des Ministeres in the 7th where his meal sounds awful (a la carte 45-60 E), closed Sundays; and Jerome Berger gave 3/5 to the American food (hamburgers, San Francisco beer and cookies) centered Lockwood in the 2nd (closed Sundays, running one 15 E).   Tuesday in Le Fooding someone reviewed Substrat in Lyon. Wednesday in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin reviewed and gave 2/4 hearts to two places: Le Bon Georges, 45, rue St Georges in the 9th, 01.48.78.40.30, closed Sundays and Mondays, a la carte 40 E, but lunch formula at 19 E, serving items such as rabbit, tartare and rice pudding and the Argentinian beef place – Recoleta in the 17th.  He then rated three places 1/4 hearts: the Greekish neo-street food Filakia in the 2nd, the New York saloonish Arty in the 2nd and the Quai Quai replacing Les Voyelles in the 1st.   The Dossier this week by Colette Monsat, Alice Bosio, Hadrien Gonzales and Hugo de Saint Phalle was on stews or dishes that take a while to cook: A blanquette de veau at La Ferrandaise A Kig Ha Farz (Breton meat and buckwheat dumpling) at l’Auberge du Roi Gradlon A beef bourgignon at Chez Rene A pot-au-feu at La Gauloise A cassoulet at l’Assiette A baeckeoffe at the Bec Rouge A poule au pot facon Henri IV aty La Poule au Pot A 7-hour lamb stew at l’Epi D’Or Pork with spices at L’Avant Gout & Coq au Vin at the Biche au Bois And Emmanuel Rubin taking over the Hache Menu from the recently reparted Francois Simon went to Une Cigogne a Paris for their choucroute costing 2 of them 77 E.  He says Go. There was also an article on trucks most of which serve food: World food: Camion BOL Mozza & Co L’Atelier d’E[icure Daily Wagon Carrito de Classico Argentino Mum Dim Sum Facon Terroir: Marc Veyrat Catherine Kluger Telenn Du Brigade Canard Huppe Caravane Doree Burgers Camion qui Fume Cantine California Refectoire Goody’s Wagy Burger Bus Strogonoff Burger Wednesday as well, Heidi Ellison in Paris Update reviewed Clandestino.   Thursday, in l’Express, Ulla Majoube reviewed Top Chef 2012 Tabata Bonardi’s restaurant Marguerite in Lyon, announced that Chipotle, which she calls “Le plus grand restaurant au monde“ is opening a branch in La Defense at the end of March and that Michel Troisgros will move Troisgros from near the Train Station in Roanne to 10 km away to a big park  in 2017; and Francois-Regis Gaudry reported that La Gazzetta has refound its Italian accent under Luigi Nastri’s hands.  Saturday, Stephane Durand Souffland in le Figaro, in the old Francois Simon Croque Notes slot, reviewed Roca, coordinates given before. Sunday in the JDD, Francois Lemaire wrote up the previously mentioned David Toutain in the 7th and Pan, 12, rue Martel in the 10th under a new British chef, one Gareth Eoin Storey which has a carte of 40 E with items such as scallops, baba au rhum and well-chosen wines.  In addition, Aurelie Chaigneau gave the previously mentioned Blue Valentine 8/10, The Fish Club 7/10 and La Garde-Robe 7/10.