Destinations Magazine

Restaurant Will in the 12th: Wow, You Sure Hit the Sweet Spot William.

By Johntalbott

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7.0 Restaurant Will, 75, rue Crozatier in the 12th, 01.53.17.02.44, closed Sundays and Monday nights (Metro: Ledru-Rollin) has been knocking the critics dead since it opened a month ago.  The chef, one William (Will) Pradeleix has been all over - Bora Bora with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Marmounia in Marrakech, the Connaught in London and most recently here at Manger, the somewhat quirky but good concept place – and the results appearing in front of you show the fruits of his travels.  The facade is so zen you almost miss the cool capital W above the door and the interior is clean, cool and has a great spidery central lamp.  The carte has a lot of offerings for a place this small and we three did a lot of back and forthing before deciding.

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For first, my friends had asparagus with rhubarb and a mayo-y sauce and a carpaccio of maigre with soy and I had hamachi with grapefruit – my fellow blogger R. had to rate them in rank order but JJ and I thought they all merited a Lake Woebegone “above average” – indeed, way above average.

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Then R. had the poitrine of pork with grilled artichoke hearts quartered, JJ the daikon, shellfish, etc., on top of squid ink risotto and a contrasting turmeric sauce and I had the plat du jour – beef cheeks with bok choy, shiitakis and a Thai bouillon – this time, Mr. Exact thought his was best but we were not far behind.  We demurred.

 

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Finally, my friends ordered an “Eton Mess” - red berries with vacherin and fromage blanc as well as a selection of goat cheese and I held back but the chef sent out a lovely panna cotta with Thai basil and mango sorbet covered with a sugar wafer that was artistic in all ways and shapes.  A nice gesture - thanks chef!

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Our bill, with the moral equivalent of 2 bottles of wine, no bottled water, a fine passion fruit mignardise and one coffee was 170.50 E for three, thus 113.66 E a couple.

Go?  I’d run if I were you.


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