Destinations Magazine

Restaurant L'1K in the 3rd: Peru 1-; Decor Over-the-top; Cuisine Not-quite-yet-up-to-speed.

By Johntalbott

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5.4 L'1K (L'Inca, got it?), 13, boulevard du Temple in the 3rd, 01.42.71.20.00, open 7/7 (because it's in the 1K Hotel after all), has been open at night (with a 60 E a la carte menu) for 5 weeks and with a very different menu (crudos aka ceviches and cosidos) at lunch for 1 week.  I had read in the NYT how Peruvian flavors were sweeping London and was intrigued that two places had opened recently in Paris.  The exterior is a shocking blue, the interior subdued save for the iguanas and goofy Inca masked chairs and as you can see, one picks a 1st (crudo) and a main (cosido) and a leche in small plates for 16 and larger plates for 25 E.

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Madame who knows more about all food than anyone else in the world (MWKMAAFTAEITW) ordered a ceviche of daurade; Colette had the tirado of maigre (the difference between a ceviche & tirado here  being that the former is marinated in coconut milk and the latter in lime juice) and I had a ceviche of poulpe; we disagreed on which ones worked best but I was only impressed by the maigre.

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For mains, MWKMAAFTAEITW and Colette had the chicken which they let me finish which is an indication of their lack of enthusiasm and I thought my beef was superb but the chimichurra awful.  Each dish came with a side dish - black rice, quinoa or asparagus - none awful but not head-snapping-back quality. All agreed the wine I had chosen was better than expected, if not "pas mal."

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Desserts were another disappointment and none of us finished either the pineapple or raspberry concoctions we had ordered.

Our bill, with 80 cl of sparkling water (9 E), a bottle and glass of red Sancerre (35 E) and two coffees (8 E) came to 90 E a couple.

Go?  I'm sure ex-Top Chef Julien Burbaud will find better suppliers (we talked to him at the end about just that) and hit his stride but I cannot in good faith recommend lunch now.  (A word to the wise; lunch is raw fish, so if you can't "do"that, stay away, and dinner is totally different, rated 3/5 hearts by Emmanuel Rubin, so you might try that).


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