Destinations Magazine

Restaurant A.T. (Atsushi Tanaka) in the 5th: Another Blow-out Experience.

By Johntalbott

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The Restaurant A.T. (Atsushi Tanaka) in the 5th is another place I ate at earlier this summer that Colette marked on her list of "musts" and we went with two wonderful long-time colleagues in town for a few days.  The menu this time was spelled out and totally different from last time excepting the charbon chip amuse starter.

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To begin with we had cubes of salmon, halves of tiny potatoes and juniper; then veal with yellow beets and rosemary - both with a bottle of light Alsatian Riesling - a wonderful start.

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Then we had chichard (a mackerel-like fish) in a cherry-tomato gaspacho with dribs of avocado; some foccacio (much better than it was last time) with olive oil from Seville; and lieu jaune (pollack) with pdt puree and safran - with another slightly more assertive Alsatian wine.

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As it came time to serve our double-lamb chops (wonderfully underdone) the head-guy who was most attentive to our wine-needs whispered "would you like some red wine with the lamb?" - I asked the table and on we went with another bottle which worked out well with the tonka/chocolate dessert as well.  "Oh," you say, "what are those green dots?" - "well they're camouflage."  "Huh?" Sure, pureed broccoli, zucchini and parsley." "Ah, ha."

Our bill; arr, hem, haw, shucks, our friends picked it up although I put up a weak fight to share it.  But if you figure that each couple had two 45 E menus, water (2 E), coffee (?) and let's say one bottle of wine at 37 E, one could get out for about 135E.


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