Pinxo LB/RG in the 6th: Very Clever Food from a Very Clever Guy.

                6.5 Pinxo Left Bank/Rive Gauche, 82, rue Mazarine, in the 6th, (Metro: Odeon), 01.43.54.02.11, open (it seems from the various offerings on the menu) 7/7 most of the day seems much smaller and intimate than the Mothership in the 1st (about 26 covers downstairs but 20 more upstairs) but is not so crowded as some reviewers have said.  It is the 5th enterprise by Alain Dutournier if I'm counting correctly, and just as well planned, managed and provisioned as any Danny Meyers joint.  There's an open kitchen and several levels of personnel who are visable above; two Dudes in red aprons cooking, two in black (one with a lapel full of a sommelier's grape bunch who seems superior to the hustler), one guy with a checkered shirt and black gloves like I wear when cold and a grand lady sans uniform who swept in and must hold the money-bags.               I waited the requisite 31 minutes for my dining date to show and when he didn't, I realized it was Mother's Day and his Mom was in town, so went ahead and ordered: - a nicely-spiced fricasee of chipirons, piquillos and fried ginger and garlic, but with too many coquillettes to finish, - duck hearts on the plancha with green asparagus on a corn polenta-esque (escaoutoan) base and thinly sliced and marinated and powerfully tasty onion strips, and - Illy with a biscotto and a glass of - could it be? - grappa? - wonderful!  But no, it was just tap water, but no matter. Now while my bill with two glasses of wine, no bottled water, coffee and no dessert, calculates at 44.50 E there is a "menu" day and night with a variety of tapas (pinxos) 1st and the plat du jour and a glass of wine for 29 E. Go?  Like General Douglas MacArthur - "I will return," but I will come with a gang and order 1/2 to 2/3rds normal, because the portions are so generous.