Destinations Magazine

Pierre Sang (Boyer) in Oberkampf: Lordy, the Man Keeps Moving Forward and Up.

By Johntalbott

Oct 2012 002

Pierre Sang (Boyer) in Oberkampf (11th) is on a roll.  Like ........., and ........., and ........ (fill in Spring, Ze, Frenchie, Vivant, etc. according to your preference(s)), he keeps innovating and moving and like ........., and ........., and ........ produces simple but complex and tasty food - no molecular tricks, no slight-of-hand, and no piling on stuff that doesn't fit together.

Three of us ordered the supposedly 4-course (really 5) "Freestyle menu" at 35 E and one the supposedly 2-course "Initial" one but in fact he gave everyone the same five dishes but (Disclosure) only charged us for what was ordered and didn't charge for the coffees.

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In any case, the dishes, in order, were:
(1) A potimarron soup with toasted hammy bits and yuzu,
(2) A scallop attached to its shell, thus very fresh, par-cooked, with tomato, spinach leaves, beet and shitakes,
(3) What I call a rollatine of tender, wonderful beef with crunchy salsifis, foie and celeriac sauce,
(4) Emmenthal with a coco bean sauce,
(5) Figs, lemon curd sauce, blueberries, a biscuit and I think verbeine sorbetto.

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With two bottles of a Loire Malbec, good bread and the aforementioned 4 coffees, but no bottled water, our bill was 216 E for 4 or 108 E a couple.

Go?  Yes, now that at least at lunch there's no line out on the street like last month.

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