Destinations Magazine

OKA Aka OKɅ in the 9th: 1st the Yankees, Then the Japanese, Now It's the Brazilians Turn.

By Johntalbott

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6.0 OKA aka OKɅ, 28, rue de la Tour d'Auvergne in the 9th (wait a minute, that rings a bell, wasn't Spring born there?  Indeed, and the pesky door and crowded seating remain but the colors are now red and Raphael Rego (ex-Atelier Robuchon) has two people helping him), (Bus: 85 downhill) closed Sundays, Mondays and Tuesdays.  I entered a bit before my fellow blogger colleague and indulged in a glass of a very crisp lean Sancerre while reading the freebies and Le Figaro (you're never alone if you have Figaro.)  While waiting I looked at the ardoise which as my mentor HH Goldman told me, was a confusogram; how could all those ingredients appear in one meal?  "Minute Papillion" everything will be illuminated.

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By illuminated I mean you should look carefully at the photos because each dish has/had all sorts of ingredients and herbs which our waitlady and the chef, speaking in French, English and I guess Portuguese, patiently explained, but I cannot for the life of me remember, but here goes:
- pieces of boudin noir in a wonderful meat wine sauce covered with a mousseline of pommes and topped with pulverized peanuts
- really great scallops with a sweet potato puree
- pork with white beans in a terrific brown sauce
- and a crumble with pineapple ice.

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Our bill with two 3-course lunches (at 19 E each), plus a bottle of wine, 2 demi-bottles of San Pellegrino (at my partner's request) and one coffee winds up at 66 E.

Go?  OK, Raphael is not Daniel Rose, who could be? but he's on the trail of Eduardo Jacinto of Le Pario as a fine, interesting Brazilian chef in Paris.  Interesting guy, interesting ingredients, interesting approach to fresh products.

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