Destinations Magazine

Nüba in the 13th: On a Clear Day You Can See Forever and Eat Well Forever Too.

By Johntalbott

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6.2  Nüba, technically at 36, quai d'Austerlitz (but really in the Docks/Wanderlust/M.O.B. building) in the 13th, (Metro: Gare d'Austerlitz), closed Mondays, 01.76.77.34.85 (but they never answer, which is a problem because they wound up turning people away who probably tried to make a reservation, as I had) opened earlier this summer and would get mentioned as a night-club, great terrace place, food served only in good weather type (not true according to the wait-guys) but what caught my eye was that the chef had come from Ze Kitchen Galerie and Galopin - Wow!.  So I was waiting for the right "good weather day" and today it was ideal - temperatures not over 80 F, not a cloud in the sky, and a rooftop view of the Seine/etc.

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The carte looks pretty simple but the dishes are anything but.  I started with the poached cuttlefish with green cabbage leaves which arrived with other veggies (scallions and fennel bottoms) in a terrific lemony sauce, which was a lot of food but I kept hearing Mom over my should saying Nonnie "finish your vegetables!" and I did - and then I had an interminable WAIT - A REALLY LONG WAIT for my - travers of pork with another whole set of wonderful marinated and grill-burned vegetables, including zesty mushrooms.  This, I could in no way finish and my waiter was convinced I didn't like it/them, offered to supply something else (Good Grief!) or or or.  No I insisted, I loved it/them.

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My bill; with no bottled water, a 1/2 bottle of Walden wine (homage to Thoreau on the back) and a coffee, it was 45.50 or 91 E a couple.

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Go?  On a nice day - run; but the reviews were all wrong, even on bad days, they have about 30 inside seats.

Problems:  Yes, the long waits, the unanswered telephone, the schlep over there, the lack of an elevator that is marked & available to all, the lack of signage or directions once there and nothing but picnic tables for 4 or 6 which resulted in my having to overhear a whispered episode of what was either a break-up in a relationship or a very delicate moment in it.


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