The Portland Lobster Company is a place that could be just one of a hundred stamped-out formuliac wharf-umbrella-food-wine&beer places on the Maine Coast but better. Our gang of 12 ordered all over the lot: mussels, sea-burgers, fried clams, chicken fingers, boiled lobsters and a host of lobster rolls. Ah lobster rolls, fresh outa the pound, on hot dog rolls and cardboard - there's one dish, the French, no matter how many years of study, can't "get."
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