Destinations Magazine

Louis in the 9th: Refined; Forced Menu; Reaching for a Star I Think.

By Johntalbott

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7.1 Louis in the 9th, 01.55.07.86.52, closed weekends (Metro: Le Peletier) is run by a delightful young Breton chef who has traveled the world (London, the Antilles, back to the Ritz in London) returning to Chez Cécile (Bib), Senderens and the Metropolitan in the 16th (not to to be mistaken with that which I am less wild about in the 4th.)  The place is spanking new, well-staffed (3 in the semi-open kitchen, 2 out front).  At lunch, one has two choices, 3 courses for 32 or 6 for 48 E.  We decided to go with one of each, sharing liberally, of course.

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However we both had the multicolored amuse that had fish eggs on a leaf, Italian bread with EVOO and a concoction that was delicious but whose ingredients I forgot as soon as they were relayed to me.  And a very nice red Sancerre or course.  Plus a pre-dessert of baba au rhum sort of and a nice Cantal.

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My guest had the ravioli of mixed meats and veggies (veal, mushrooms etc); rouget with curcuma; mackerel with scallops (the most terrific dish of the day); Normandy beef with cucumber and oysters; and a cream with pastilla.

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I was not at all deprived with my three dishes: an egg in a fluffy asparagus sauce with green asparagus (fine with some salt); the most lovely piece of veal of this spring with spring veggies; and wait, not the same dessert, whoops, missing a pix here.

Our bill with 2 aperos, one dessert glass and one bottle of wine, no bottled water, fine bread and 2 coffees, was 151 E.  But hark, if one didn't have the extra wine or cheese, a couple could come in at about 103 E.

Go back?  ASAP.

 


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