Destinations Magazine

Les Tablettes De Jean-Louis Nomicos: Another Outstanding Meal at an Astonishing Price.

By Johntalbott

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We returned to Les Tablettes de Jean-Louis Nomicos with the parents of a chef we know and when pere tried the amuse of a lemon gel bottom, a creamy middle, fennel and a tomato sauce on top, he, three hours off a plane said the likes of "I've never had anything like this before, it's very good."  The four of us went with the 42 E 3 course "menu"' with wine from the carte versus the 58 E 4-course one with coffee and 37.5 cl of wine.  Smart Euro-wise?  I'm not so sure.

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For firsts, the rest of the table chose the langoustine emulsion with foie gras raviolis and raw green asparagus and I decided to try to bouillabaisse jelly with squid, rouget, fava beans rouille and basil oil .  Both were fabulous despite the fact that my prevailing theory is that French chefs use fluff like salt to cover up their sins, here the fluff was fab.

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For mains, in descending order, we had the artisinal pasta, morilles, asparagus and sot l'y laisse of chicken; crispy skinned lieu (of the cod family) with marjorum, smoked eggplant and piquillos; and a jarret of veal with a ginger sauce, raw carrot slices and terrific (I assume Noirmoutier) potatoes).

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 Desserts were a fondant of chocolate with cocoa sorbet and mascarpone and various "wood" fruits with fromage blanc and raspberry sorbet.

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With two bottles of nice Bordeaux, 3 coffees and no bottled water our bill was 116.50 E per couple which our guests picked up in a terribly nice gesture.  Disclosure: the head guy gave us all glasses of a wonderful fortified red wine from Ukraine that had echoes of cassis, prune and other fruits.  Another nice gesture.


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