Destinations Magazine

Les Nautes in the 4th: Very Cool Setting, Very Nice Food, Very Warm Service.

By Johntalbott

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6.4 Les Nautes, 1, quai des Celestins in the 4th (Metro: St Paul or Sully-Morland), is open Wednesday through Sunday, 01.42.74.59.53, and occupies an old abandoned Ports de Paris building, recently restored.  Today was the beginning of Nautic 2013 at the Porte de Versailles, so that seemed a good excuse to look out over the water and sample the cuisine of Sofia Bouziane (ex-Robuchon, ex-Pourcels).  The interior is cool, almost butcher-block tables, slatted metal ceiling, 2nd floor seating (not to mention the tables outdoors on the quai itself which during Paris Plage must be teeming.)

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My invitee had already installed herself in the corner and by the time I arrived, the rain had stopped and the sun was shinning brightly in her eyes - "Would you like to move over here a bit where it's shady," said our genial host.  "Indeed," and it was done.  The menu had several intriguing items and when we mentioned a Languedoc as our wine, our host proposed two bottles both of which he had us taste.  The Bois-Sans-Soif pleased my compagnion most and there we went.

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After a bit of hesitation, she ordered the shaved fennel with agrume wedges and I had a dozen No 2 oysters (for 18 E, a bargain I thought); both were very good.

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Again hesitating, she asked our host's advice on a main course and she had it - a big ravioli with a nice dish of shaved parmesan on the side - which she deemed OK.  But I loved my baby pork shoulder with turnips from Pardailham in the Hérault/Languedoc-Roussillon - scrumptious.  Finally, we shared an outstanding Paris-Brest.

Our bill, with no bottled water, a bottle of wine and two coffees, was 91.60 E.  dB level 71.3.

Go?  If it was good today, on a sunny day in summer it'll be divine.


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