6.9 Le Pario, 54 ave Emile-Zola in the 15th, closed Sundays only (Saturdays serving the nationasl dish of Brazil - feijoada) 01.45.77.28.82, (Metro: Charles Michels) is run by a Brazilian chef, who did his time with Christian Constant at the Violin d'ingres (who hasn't?) and it garnered a rare 3/4 hearts from Emmanuel Rubin of Figaroscope. It's a lovely place, very modern, I cannot imagine it when it was called Oh! Duo, and has a large staff (4 in the front room alone) and a name that relects the chef's national inclinations - Pario = Paris Rio.
The menu is very reasonable - 17 E = 2 course, 22 E for 3 (today cod, beef tartare & rice pudding with caramel) but I chose to go a la carte with some fine Cotes du Rhone. As I was sitting, reading Le Figaro and waiting I noted that their clientele were my folks: mature, ties and suits, adventuresome and excited by the food.
I began with the veloute of Breton artichokes with artichokes, a cepes ravioli and lardons (wonderful); proceeded to the so-called rabbit fricassee, really a deconstructed rabbit with a compote of cooked figs (pas mal de toutl); and tempted to order the rice pudding or poached pear just for the caramel beurre sale, got the pear with a sauce bowl of caramel (my oh my).
Problem: Well, both yesterday and today everyone on the wait-team asked multiple times if everything was OK. Had they Googled me? Hummmm.
Go? Jeez, guys, what do i have to do to motivate you to go to the deepest 15th?
