Destinations Magazine

Le Lulli in the Grand Hotel Du Palais Royal in the 1st: Chef Jean-Yves Bournot Pulled out All the Stops.

By Johntalbott

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Le Lulli was one of the highlights of my Fall but my visit fell between those of Colette so we went today with two long time friends from the neighborhood.  The menu is a 2-2-2 costing 35 E for 2 courses and 42 for three.  But to start us off Chef Jean-Yves Bournot (8 years at the Meurice with Yannick Alléno and 2 years with Thierry Marx, as well as time spent with the Pourcels and at the Cheval Blanc in Courcheval) produced two superb amuses - the first a sort of puff-pastry with foie gras and the second a mini-quenelle type piece of bar with soup.

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For firsts, our friends ordered the gnocchi with potatoes, wild rocket and egg, at least I think they did, because two portions appeared plus one the chef wanted Colette to have.  Me, I got the huge tourte of grouse with sweetbreads and a rich dark sauce that beat the one I had yesterday by a mile.

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For mains, Colette and one of our pals had the poularde Souvaroff, the other had a huge ball of sweetbreads with fresh chestnuts and I had the scallops with a light citrus sauce; all were top-top.

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We had two pre-desserts; the first a vanilla mousse and the second some mascarpone; then among us we also shared some chocolate tart and profiteroles, which again were all simply marvelous.

At some point the chef came out and over and we tried to thank him for a wonderful meal and more than that - a wonderful experience- we were warmly welcomed and enjoyed the elegant setting.

The bill was 105 E a couple which doesn't compute, so I think a lot was comp'd, but since I've already judged the place in my top 20 of the year it doesn't change my already very high opinion of the chef and this restaurant.


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