Destinations Magazine

Le Gaigne in the 8th: Not Like the Old Place in Many Ways.

By Johntalbott

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4.0 Le Gaigne, 2, rue de Vienne in the 8th, 01.45.22.23.62 (Metro: Europe), closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, is a restaurant with the same name and same chef (Mickaël Gaignon) as his former gem in the 4th which I loved beyond measure.  But oh what a difference;
- a cool, discrete outside
- designer inside
- 40 rather than 16 covers
- Madame (Aurélie) nowhere to be seen, replaced by two jolly, friendly male professionals
- a huge wine list and
- prices many times that at the old haunt.

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We were served amusing dainty amuses just as one would expect in an 8th joint, then my fellow-blogger ordered the cold soup of green leafy things which was extraordinarily soul-less while I scored with a toasty egg in a bed of mushrooms and their sauce.

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For our mains we decided to go 50-50 but she started off with an overcooked, oversalted ray saved by a very tasty tasting lentil concoction and I had a good but not mind-blowing pintade.

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For dessert, we again decided to order both and see; well, the mirabelle/sorbet thing was simply nowhere and the crepes without any ooompf.  The mignardises were 8th-stuff once again - but the coffee was great.

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With a bottle and two glasses of wine, no bottled water, excellent bread and that superb coffee, our bill was 127 E.  dB level = 68.2 befitting the suit and tie 8th clientele.

Go?  I've got to hear a lot more reports from trusted sources showing that Gagnon has upped his game before I return.  But return I will because I know how good his food can be.  Transiting to the center, especially the 8th, works for some (Eric Frechon) but not all for all (Mark Singer & Catherine Guerraz).


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