Destinations Magazine

La Cuisiniere Lyonnaise in the 17th; A Breath of Lyon in a Cloud of French Snow.

By Johntalbott

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5.5 La Cuisiniere Lyonaise, 37, rue St-Ferdinand in the 17th, 01.45.74.69.20 (Metro: Argentine), closed weekends brings a breath of Lyonnaise cooking to this weird part of the 17th where there's little competition except for MBC.

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It has the bouchon "look,"  the Lyon specialties and a "formule" of 2 courses for 18.50 and three for 25 E that's hard to beat.  I was tempted by the quenelles but horified by the chunks of white chicken that went by me.

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It turned out that I and 50 other customers (the place was bursting at the seams) ordered it too because by 1:18 they were out.  It started with a terrine of heavily jellied veal parts which you don't want to know about, that was not much of a much until you put a little nice dressed greens on it and then it sang.  The boeuf bourgignon was unlike that one usually gets here, where they throw in the worst gristle and sinew of bad cuts of beef - this was high end and beautifully cooked.  (Not up to Colette's version of Julia's but OK on a dreadful afternoon weather-wise).  Finally the crepes Suzettes were quite acceptable. 

With a pot of Cotes du Rhone, coffee, fine brown but weak white bread and no bottled water - in a bouchon? - My Lord - my bill was 36.50 E.

Go?  Well, if at the Convention Center and as an alt to MBC, sure, but not worth a trip acoss town.  Noise - 83.3 dB.


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