Destinations Magazine

L'Office in the 9th: Challenging Ze and Spring for Constantly Changing and Creative Cuisine.

By Johntalbott

May-june 2012 024L'Office in the 9th is a hot, new, bistro-restaurant that could easily now rest on its laurels, slack off service, raise prices and downgrade products, but no, Kevin O'Donnell keeps kicking it up a notch.  I went today with two women who seem to use L'Office as their office or at least office cantine, since they've been here tons more times then I.  The greeting we got was on a par for what The Queen of England is now receiving and I was honored to be with them but puzzled why the reservation was in my name.

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The firsts were impossible to choose from but my partners had the thin slice of watermelon that almost covered the plate, with feta and cucumber on top and I had the almost-raclette-like scamorze cheese with raw zucchini (remember, Kevin toiled at Del Posto), a gamba and two sauces, one tomatoish.  These two dishes have to have been two of the best ones I have and shall have this summer.

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Then for mains, the ladies both had the tuna , almost (but not enough for me) raw on the inside, cooked on the outside with vegetables, while I had a starter as a main - a crisp-skinned piggy delight with girolles and an egg of all things on top.  If I described the latter as divine I would be doing it a disservice. 

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For dessert, two of us had the superb strawberry tarte with creme anglaise and (I think) basil ice cream.

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With a bottle and a glass of wine, no bottled water but three coffees, our bill was 106.40 E or 72.27 E a couple.

Go?  ALERT - Now open Monday-Saturday, so please do.

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