Destinations Magazine

L'Esquisse in the 18th: Shush, Let's Keep This Undiscovered Gem to Ourselves.

By Johntalbott

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L'Esquisse in the 18th was my first rentree resto at my rentree after a lovely summer out of Paris; Colette has since come back and our oldest Franco-American friend here had to do Grandma stuff with her little flautist down the street, so I thought I'd see how things were going at the sketchy restaurant - was my first impression just my rentree altered memory or my rentree revelation?  The menu aka carte is really exciting, as one might expect from an ex-Ritz, ex-Baratin alumna and we had a tough time deciding.

 

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Colette chose to not have a first (saving herself for dessert) but my old pal from our 1953 Paris/Loire summer, who has lived here ever since, and I had the praires, which our perfect English-speaking waiter wanted an English translation for/of.. "Ah, clam family" said I, originally from Boston/Cambridge.  "No, they don't taste like clams," says she, originally from the Long Island Sound.  "So more like between cockles/coques and bulots,"  "Not at all."  My A-Z says "dog cockle shellfish, another source says venus clam"  Hunh?  Well we left poor Thomas wondering what kind of translators we were.

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So onto the mains where Colette had the pork cheeks with abundant vegetables made in a wok and my old friend ("my old friend" ah yes - Craig Wiseman and Steve McEwan) and I had the perfectly sourced and cooked pintade which also came with a lot of veggies and kasha and ice cream.  "Hold on, Thomas, ice cream?"  "Yah, we like to do hot and cold."  "Whoa, cool."

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Our desserts were even better than our firsts and seconds which is hard to believe; an apple tart, lemon something and a fig delight.  Wonderful.

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With 2 bottles of wine (we were celebrating her new eyes and my new heart and Colette's new knee-fix), no bottled water & 3 coffees, was 147 for three, thus 96 E a couple.

Go? Please don't, you'll ruin the non-"pesky" atmosphere, which even with infants, was only 70.8 dB.


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