Claire Howeson left her career as a solicitor to follow in her newly-found mission; in 2013, she established Penmayne of London aspiring to bring back hats as an everyday accessory rather than occasion-wear, typically associated with British millinery. Today her label offers beautifully crafted fur-felt fedoras and sophisticated trilbies, which work for multiple occasions, throughout Europe and the USA, and is constantly expanding to reach potential markets. We sat down with Claire to discuss shifting careers and running her young business.
How did it feel at first jumping from law to fashion? Could you describe for us your shift from one career to another?
A massive change and an amazing journey of discovery. Leaving the comfort of a solid professional job was terrifying, but I was so motivated and focused by the vision I had for the business that I never questioned the decision, and almost didn’t have time to think about it too much. It is a huge change, but at the same time there are so many skills that I learnt as a lawyer that I use in running a business on a daily basis – it’s just in a very different guise (and much more creative)!
Given your different background, what is the most surprising thing you have come to discover about the fashion industry?
It’s not as scary as I thought it would be. The wonderful thing I have come to realize about fashion is that there is something for everyone, and there is no right or wrong; fashion is all about the way that people interpret style in different ways, and how they express that style. I thought I would find the industry really daunting; in fact I have found it hugely inspiring and accepting.
What is your biggest source of inspiration?
Nature and science. I come from a scientific background and studied Cell Biology for my degree – I just think the natural world, and how it works is mind boggling and stunningly beautiful.
What is the most detailed hat you ever worked on?
The first hat I ever made, and it took me six months! It was a huge hat with layers and layers of crinalin and I still wear it to weddings now. I remember realizing at that stage that I had more patience and creativity than I thought, and it ignited a creative passion and drive in me which I’d never really felt before.
You have recently introduced a monogramming service. Do you think customization could actually work for brands, or is it just a fad?
To me, the trend in customization is a wider reflection of the growing appreciation of, and investment in, smaller-scale manufacturing, quality and craftsmanship. I hope, and believe, that that is here to stay.
Where are your clients based? Hats could be considered an everyday accessory in the UK; but what about the rest of the world?
Our customers are based all around the world – we take orders online from the US, Europe and UK mainly but we also have access to a strong international market through being stocked in Harrods, and we are looking to work with international stockists over the next year. I think that the UK is just the beginning, and our product has a huge amount of potential globally.
Fascinators are a huge part of the British tradition. Would you ever include them in your upcoming lines?
They are, and that market has done incredibly well in the last 10 years. However, we are trying to do something a bit different here, and focus on hats as an everyday accessory rather than occasion-wear. We want the brand to be synonymous with really beautiful everyday felt hats – we want to do one thing and do it really well.
How are you growing your business?
We are expanding our collections all the time, and also bringing in collections that are designed in London and made in Italy (which gives us the opportunity to scale up the business). Our focus will still be on British-made hats and the work we do here in the studio, but there are a number of wonderful manufacturers in Europe who we also want to work with.
We are about to launch a really beautiful new collection called The Sienna Collection which is designed in London and made in Italy.
Have you had your I-have-finally-made-it moment yet?
I’m just not sure you ever have that moment when you run your own business. There have been lots of moments where I have been totally overwhelmed and very proud of what we have achieved, but for me every success brings with it a new horizon and you realize that you want to be there, not here. For me it’s all about the journey rather than the end; at the moment I have no idea what the end is!
What are you currently working on?
There are lots of exciting ideas in the pipeline – we are just about to present our new Spring/Summer 2016 collections; we are bringing in lots of new shapes and colors. We are also developing products other than hats which is very exciting…watch this space!
www.penmayne.com
Images © Penmayne of London
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