Born in Paris and having lived between New York, Madrid and Marrakech, jeweler Parme Marin, a self-proclaimed citizen of the world, channels her experiences and impressions through her namesake cosmopolitan brand. Her collections are an intriguing mix of all sorts of premium materials she has sourced through her travels with brand-new or recycled objects. Her company is strongly committed to train and develop the artisans’ business in Morocco, aiming at bringing back to life ancient techniques and materials reinterpreting them for the modern woman. We sat down with Parme, who was selected by Vogue as part of their new talents program in 2013, to discuss not getting a formal education on jewelry and expanding her young brand.
You have studied acting. How did you jump into jewelry design?
I started my company while I was in New York studying acting at Lee Strasberg. I had no experience whatsoever in jewelry making or fashion, but I had ideas and, as some of my friends like to tell me, a unique taste. The first pieces I put together were a relative success – I was featured in Vogue Italia – and I decided to move forward with my ideas and create my own brand. It is undeniable that my years at Lee Strasberg and my passion for the theater have influenced the creation of my pieces, that some could see as “dramatic” and “bold”.
Apart from acting, did you have any formal training in jewelry design?
No, I never studied jewelry design. Before acting school, I went to business school. Not that I liked it, but it taught me a lot, and I am glad I finished it.
What was the first piece of jewelry you designed?
It was a necklace made out of a bag handle, leather, ribbon and beaded fringes. It was inspired from Native American outfits. Soon, I had a lot of orders from friends and friends of friends. I remember people stopping me in the street to ask me where I got it. I was very flattered.
What is the most unexpected place/thing/other you have found inspiration in?
I think a lot of my inspiration comes from travels, the love I have for Art Deco and colors. But just to name one, I remember being in a restaurant, and while I was having an aperitif by the fireplace, the shape and colors of this one struck me! A few days later, I created a necklace and gave it the architect’s name.
You source the raw materials you use ethically. How easy is this for designers who are in the beginning of their career?
Sourcing is to me the funniest part! You just need time and an open mind. The most difficult is the next step; the making, transforming these raw materials into beautiful objects. It took me a little more than a year to find the right people and make sure the result was exactly what I wanted. It is still a daily struggle, as I am always trying to find more interesting materials to use. But it’s part of the job! And this is what makes my work interesting and different. Production is always the most painful process in the fashion industry. You just have to be very organized and very patient.
Which has been the most valuable experience the fashion industry has taught you?
This entire journey has taught me a lot about myself, and especially about how to manage working with others. I have a strong personality, and sometimes it’s hard for me to allow myself to delegate. There are so many codes in this industry. Sometimes it’s hard for me! I just realized that if you want to keep doing what you love, you have to make your own recipe.
What is the most surprising thing you learned about the jewelry industry?
To be honest, I don’t really follow the jewelry industry. I don’t really consider my brand as a jewelry brand but more as an accessory brand – a new category, a mix between jewelry and clothing.
Where do you see your business in five years time?
In the near future, our goal is to expand to Asia, starting with Japan, a market that I hope will be appealing to Parme Marin.
In terms of products, our intention is to develop, in addition to jewelry, other accessories such as bags, belts, scarves and sandals.
I have also been in touch with some brands to do some freelancing. This is at a very preliminary stage, but I believe the experience could be enriching. I am very curious to explore that aspect too.
For more information and shopping online, visit parmemarin.com.
Images © Parme Marin
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