After a stint working next to high-street brands right after graduating, Frances O’Leary launched her namesake label to enjoy creative freedom and pursue ethical manufacture. Since 2012, when her brand was born, her collections have been presented at the very first Origin, Passion and Beliefs show in Vicenza, Italy (in collaboration with Not Just a Label), at Fashion Scout, and Pitti Immagine, and debuted at the London Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2015 last year. Starting from the designer’s love for abstract, kaleidoscopic prints and conceptual design, Frances aims to create pieces people can wear for years. We caught up with her to discuss her views on fast fashion, ethical sourcing and the challenges of trying to make it as a fashion designer.
Where did your fascination with abstract prints begin?
I’ve always been driven by color, texture and shape, and I think that for me print stemmed organically from there.
You worked for high-street retailers before establishing your label. How did this experience determine the decision to launch your own company?
I have learned a lot within the industry, and I have worked with some very well-established companies, however when I began to work independently, I wanted to have the scope to be more creative. Although my work is very wearable, I prefer not to follow trends or be directly influenced by other designers’ work. I also wanted to become more independent to focus on a “slow fashion” approach with an aim to encourage people to buy less and keep things for longer. “Fast fashion” can be a stifling environment for a designer, and, from a personal perspective, I would like to see the market slow down from a sustainable point of view. Having said that, I am very grateful to past employers for all they did teach me.
I’ve read your opinion on fast fashion on your interview with Not Just a Label, which you also credited among the things that go wrong in fashion today. What do you think on designer collaborations with fashion fashion brands?
I love the idea of accessibility, and I think for some designers this is a well-needed cash injection for their business. I think that the only thing I would personally want to consider would be a certain amount of quality control, as well as any ethical issues surrounding manufacture.
What makes you sensitive to producing locally?
I love that the UK is beginning to manufacture more at home, and, since starting my business, this is something I have felt very strongly about from an ethical perspective. I do plan to continue to source and manufacture as much as I can within the UK, however, I have been doing lots of research into sustainable factories overseas and may consider this for some products, as the UK is still very expensive and for small quantities this can be problematic. For me, the most important thing is taking responsibility ethically, and, throughout my research, I have found this can be achieved abroad with consideration. I have found the Ethical Fashion Source, a fantastic help for this. They’re great, and I would urge other designers to look at their database whether considering manufacture at home or overseas.
Tell us a few words about your current collection, “Into the Deep, “and the blue theme that underpins it.
The current collection is one very much driven by aesthetic and mood. I have lately been drawn to images representing fluidity and fragility, like impressionist seascapes and oil spills. I wanted to make a collection entirely of blue hues due to the depth of mood it brings. I also wanted to draw from imagery and ideas representing both strength and fragility, and I feel that the sheer fabrics and deep blue tones really embody that.
Do you do fashion week? If not, how are you getting the word about your work out?
Yes, I launched during London Fashion Week in February with Black PR. It was great to be a part of the showrooms and meet so many amazing people from the industry. I do plan to show my next collection during fashion fashion week again, but I am taking some time to develop new products and processes and so I am in no rush. In terms of getting the word out about my work, as well as fashion week I have also shown at Fashion Scout, Pitti Imagine and Origin, Passion and Beliefs with Not Just a Label. Not Just a Label have been a great support since the start of my business.
Is there a trend you look most forward to implement in your future collections?
I try to avoid what I would typically see as a “trend,” just as I feel that trends move so fast and this makes our clothes date. I’d like to hope that the women who buy my clothes can keep them, and wear them season after season without feeling out of date.
What has been the most valuable lesson you have learned so far that you can share with other emerging designers?
I would say, try not to rush and be pressured by your surroundings. I would also encourage other designers to share experiences with one another; I have a pool of designers I have met along the way, and we help each other out when we can. This is so great, as working alone can be very lonely.
UK is extremely supportive of emerging designers. Yet, what is the biggest challenge you faced while trying to establish your business?
The biggest challenge is money, and I think it always has been. Financing collections each season is a huge pressure for myself and every designer I know.
What are you currently working on, and what are your future plans?
I’m currently working on lots of new textile processes and techniques; I’m learning lots of new skills to create new products, and I hope to have a new collection to show next year.
francesoleary.com
Images © Johanna Nyholm
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