7.1 Heimat, 47, rue de Montpensier in the 1st, 01.40.26.78.25, closed weekends (Metro: Palais-Royal) is Pierre Jancou's latest creation (following Cremerie, Racine and the Vivant twins) and is still in the process of completion - my first shot is of the dining room as it now is and the 2nd and 3rd show the woodwork that the architect (a Buren associate) will use in completing the furniture. The menu is simple yet amazingly complicated, constructed by three Italian chefs (one the former sous at Rino) and the desserts by an Alsatian.
The firsts were a tete de veau with oyster mayo and bergamottes and bulots on a bed of parsnip puree and dandelions. Subtle, clever and delicious.
The mains were just as exciting: lieu jaune with cabbage and a salsifis cream and rigatoni with pulverized rabbit bits, olives and wild marjoram.
The desserts were the only weak spot I thought: the beets with agrumes and fromage blanc were OK but the chocolate tart with pear and more fromage blanc was so subpar I couldn't bear to finish it.
Far off-setting that were the two wines, one a Bordeaux (Chat. Massereau) that we ordered, the other a Correze (Baie Pourpre) that Jancou very generously presented as a petit cadeau to the three famous ladies I was dining with.
Our bill with two bottles of their filtered water, OK bread and 3 superb coffees, was 92.50 E a couple.
Go? For sure but next time I'll shoot for a back room where I can hear better (this was 85.8 dB).
