Destinations Magazine

Es in the 7th: Another Japanese Chef Putting out Nice, Perfect, Indeed Too Flawless French Food.

By Johntalbott

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5.8 Es, 91, rue de Grenelle in the 7th, 01.45.51.25.74, closed Sundays and Mondays (Metro: Solferino) is one of these places whose fascade and interior decor and so minimalist it telegraphs what food you'll be getting. At lunch it's a "surprise" four course meal plus an amuse and mignardises.

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First we got a smidgen of citonated creme with a sliver of sable; then an al dente white asparagus stalk in a sauce of petit pois; next slices of perfecly cooked and sourced turbot in a shrimp sauce; followed by crispy-skinned pieces or porcelet with both cultivated and wild green asparagus with an oil of verbena; and a sable with strawberries and raspberries and verveine ice cream; terminating with mignardises.  All were good, made to perfection but in the end lacked soul.

Our bill with a bottle of white Sancerre (the wine prices for me are outasight), no bottled water, terrific bread and butter and three 5 E coffees, was 195 E, thus 130 E a couple.

Go?  I suppose you must since it's the talk of the town, but you won't find any of the three of us there again.


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