Bezel set engagement rings are some of the most unique engagement rings you’ll come across. The bezel setting is a thin layer of metal that hugs the perimeter of a diamond (or other gemstone) rather than using prongs to keep in in place. Often, the bezel is part of a bowl-like setting that cups the diamond from underneath, a technique that’s especially popular with fancy colored diamonds. Using metals like yellow gold or rose gold can beautifully enhance a fancy yellow or fancy pink diamond, or even a pale pink gem like Morganite, for a more intense look. One of my favorite ways to turn a “special” diamond into something of true beauty is by taking a stone with great clarity and a hefty carat weight, but color that’s more “Bud Light” than fancy intense is by setting it into a yellow gold bezel setting and adding pave (as demonstrated below). This can even be done with white diamonds that err on the side of brown to create a gorgeous end product. As long as the stone is clear, you still have a ring that’s unique, colorful, and has the fancy look without the hefty fancy colored price tag. Of course, using it in white metal with white diamonds adds an unexpected twist to engagement rings, especially vintage style engagement rings or actual antiques. While the bezel setting typically conjures modern imagery (think Tiffany’s Bezet collection – wonder where they got that name), it can be used with great effect in a vintage style ring. Check out some of my favorites from RLJ below.
18kt gold two tone fancy yellow diamond engagement ring
This diamond is lovely, albeit very pale yellow. It’s still fancy yellow, but RLJ thought it could benefit from a little boost. Think of this yellow gold bezel setting as a push up bra for your diamond. Then consider the rest of this setting a low cut top because yowza. It is, as we professionally refer to it within the industry, iced out. A halo of pave white diamonds show off its popular cushion cut, and the pave continues onto the tops and bottoms of the shanks. It is kind of a split shank, but the negative space is filled with big old baguettes, bringing the setting’s total diamond carat weight to 2.40ctw.
Bezel set oval fancy yellow diamond engagement ring
Another fancy yellow, but this one is slightly darker in tone. The yellow gold bezel setting brightens up the imprint of this 3.44 carat oval shape diamond. And it too gets an added dose of bling from a pave halo and split shank, but check out the accent diamonds – they’re also in bezel settings! This is a fantastic use of continuity to tie the different shaped and different colored diamonds back to the star of this ring, the center stone. The added diamonds tack on an additional 2.16 carats to its total weight!
Antique style bezel set engagement ring
This is the perfect example of an antique style bezel set engagement ring I mentioned earlier. While the bezel setting is employed in minimalist, modern styles, it’s actually one of the oldest settings, dating back to ancient times. So its use in antique rings is unexpected, but shouldn’t be! This gorgeous Old European cut diamond shines in a smooth platinum bezel setting, with an assist from accent stones above and below, and four additional bezel set rounds on either side. It is gorgeous and perfectly captures the romantic essence of a time gone by, with a totally different look than a lot of other antique rings I’ve seen/tried on/drooled over.
5.32ct Fancy Yellow Oval Cut Diamond Engagement Ring
Finally, we wrap up with a huge fancy yellow diamond in a micropave setting, because that’s what dreams are made of and this is how I roll. I put this ring on my finger once to post to Instagram and had an extremely hard time removing it, despite the fact that it is exactly my size. In fact, my entreaties to the Big Boss to justletmekeepit often reference the fact that massive diamond rings are exactly my size. And by size I mean 5.75 and over 4 carats but I digress. This rock is breathtaking. It’s a hefty 5.32 carats but its spread is so great that it could pass for 7. And while sacrificing that depth on a white diamond could spell disaster for its cut grade, this baby still sparkles and shines – and all the more thanks to a yellow gold bezel setting. Normally I pass on micropave halo and shanks for a more stark Graff/Winstonesque style, but the delicate diamonds paired with a very elongated shape have me singing a different tune. Yes I’m playing favorites this week – it’s almost as good as playing dress up.