Destinations Magazine

Encore: Cuisine d'Amis: Ici Et Maintenant in the 9th: Oh, One More Japanese Guy Cooking French Food: Well, Not Quite.

By Johntalbott

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6.7 Encore: Cuisine d'Amis: Ici et Maintenant, 43, rue Richer (the new hot feng shui street in town) in the 9th, 01.72.60.97.72 (Metro: Ah, faggedaboudid, but buses #85 et al), closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, has sure gotten the buzz this late summer and my famous (perhaps I should say infamous, at least at the Chinese Embassy) trouble-making friend from the 9th suggested we go.  So I show up, early as always, and of course, there is or is not, once again, any indication of the resto's existence (a few minutes later she waltzes by looking me straight in the face as I sat looking out the window/terrace seat and I yelled "Hey, it's here; I'm here, It's me, Hey!"

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So there's not a lotta choices, at lunch 2/1/1 and dinner 2/2/2 and the guy (Yoshi Morie) better be good because except for Daniel Rose, not many chefs can pull off a forced choice menu every day.  But onward.

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So we both had:
-the melange-soup of likewarm bouillon with raw cauliflower and intensely flavored cooked mussels and clams
-a perfectly cooked piece of tender, flavorful echine of pork with our old friend Joel T's veggies, and
-a poached fig sitting in a verveine sauce with really good sherbet.
Lemme just say - this was chow worth schlepping 30 minutes for.

Adding to our pleasurable experience were the natural/bio wines, bread from Du Pain et Les Idees across town, no bottled  water, a decibel level not exceeding 67.5 dB and a chat with Paris's premier concierge and his "team".

The bill, with three dishes each, a bottle and glass of wine, one calvados, two coffees and two glasses of bubbly which were offered to everyone, was 94.25 E.

Go?  You have to ask?  Some of my readers won't go to anything I rate below a 7/10 - silly people.  Colette and I will be here in a few weeks.


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