Destinations Magazine

Dix-Huit in the 17th: One of a Kind and Not What You're Thinking. The Chef is from the Philippines and Has Apicius, Drouant, Ze and Pan Creds.

By Johntalbott

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6.5 Le Dix-Huit, 18, rue Bayen in the 17th, 01.53.81.79.77, closed Sundays (Metro: Ternes but a schlep) is a place I thought of after my Franco-American-Philippine (F-A-P) friend said "There's no great chef from Philippines cooking in Paris."  "Hey," I said, "there's this guy, Aaron Isip (ex-Apicius, Drouant, Ze and Pan cooking over in the 17th."  "Oh yah, we're going to a benefit for the Philippines' disaster next week."  "So you don't want to go?"  "No, we do, because what he's doing then [we later learned, was a whole roast pig on buns] will be different.  For people wanting to contribute to the fund, you can contact it/them at       .

We arrived and sat in the sunlit "patio" room at the rear (good choice for vision, bad for noise - 9.2 dB) which has cool mismatched hanging lamps and perused the carte & 24 E 3-course "menu" which looked damn good.  Although we are going to return for the 60 E wild duck with adobo sauce someday.

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So to the "menu" we three went, with absolutely innovative and inventive combos of: 
- huges chunks of tender octopus, shaved ginger, chorizo, dill, a braised scallion and a thick black squid ink sauce that my F-A-P friend kept raving about throughout the dish and the meal,
- par-cooked Beluga lentils with shredded lamb and a curried peanut sauce
- 4 superb cheeses and
- confited apicot halves with fromage blanc.

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Because my friends are like the Jack Sprats, one will drink no white, one will drink no red, we ordered a bottle of each and were most satisfied.

The bill, with two bottles of wine and a digestif for our F-A-P friend and a coffee for me with great white and brown bread, was 136 E for three, thus 90.66 E a couple.

Go?  As Rubin says "Trot."


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