Destinations Magazine

Coretta (King) in the 17th: Cool, Really Cool, but Not up to Neva's Standards (yet).

By Johntalbott

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5.3 Coretta, looking out over Martin Luther King Jr. Park, 151 bis Rue Cardinet in the 17th, open 7/7 (brunch on Sundays), (Metro Brocant or Bus # 31) is Chef Beatriz Gonzales' second place after her spectacular Neva in the 8th.  It is a stunning 2-floor place, looking out over the park which you'll recall, our wonderful Mayor, Bertand Delanoye, in his last term alas, leveled for the Olympic Village of 2012 until said Games were stolen by Perfidious Albion whose Prime Minister had the chutzpah to actually lobby.  A sad sad day in 2005, but the Mayor had a card up his sleeve, turn it into a giant park surrounded by residential and office buildings and a new Palais de Justice-Law Courts "Pentagon", all very ecological and with a "vacuum waste collection system."  Ohhh, I can't wait to hear that giant sucking sound going South.

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The menu is really intriguing and we had a tough time deciding.   But, with a nice amuse gueule of truffled-fluff, terrific bread and butter and a decent Medoc we went forward.

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My "date's" mackerel and my head and tongue of veal - both with lots of tasty veggies - were alright.

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Then she chose the duck which was alright and I had the crusty-skinned but weirdly sauced sweetbreads which as just alright.

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We both looked at the dessert menu - ah, the "cinnamon box with caramel," sounds great - "order at the start" - darn.  So we took #2 - a millefeuille with nuts and caramel beurre sale - wonderful - why didn't I recall that Neva's pastry chef, Yannick Tranchant, is one of the best in the business?  No matter, all's well that end's well as Tante Georgette would say.

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A visit to the cool toilets and the bill - no bottled water, a bottle of wine, 2 coffees and it's 102 E a couple.

Go?  I hope to hear reports that Chef Gonzales has upped the level because I'd really like to return.

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