Destinations Magazine

Chez Frezet in the 18th: This is the Best That the Petit Marguery/Bastide Odeon Group Can Do?

By Johntalbott

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5.1 Chez Frezet,  181, rue Ordener in the 18th , 01.46.06.64.20, open 7/7 (Metro: Jules Joffrin); the Mousset Group (which runs the three Marguery’s, Bastide Odeon, Chez Francoise and La Maree) made a stealth invasion into the quartier in April of 2011 taking over the then-named Paris Boheme where I had an awful meal under the misguided impression that the chef, who had been through my hometown Baltimore’s finest restos, might have picked up a few tricks and have retro-named it Le Frezet, which it was when Colette and I first came to the area and where I learned what salmon unilaterale, was.  Whew, how's that for running-on?

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There are two very reasonably-priced "menus" and I chose to go with the less expensive one, mainly because I craved eperlans.  But they came smelling of fish, too fishy, not as if they were plucked out of the Loire yesterday, over-salted but redeemed by a nice tasting tartare.  Then I had a faux filet which was OK, but the sauce seeking to replicate the "secret one" at the Entrecote joints, wasn't close to them.  Midway through I got a call from France Telecom - the guy was running early - who ever heard of that?  So I ordered some pre-made chocolate mousse which was OK but the biscuit wafer was superior.

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With a 1/2 bottle of fine claret, no bottled water, more than passable bread and a coffee, my bill was 30.90 E (which may explain why the place was packed with locals despite the lack of reviews.)

Go?  Lesson Learned: If the only mention of a place is in a Figaroscope Dossier, unh unh.


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