Destinations Magazine

Beaucoup in the 3rd: Très Branché, Très Bobo, Très Serré Et Très, Très Insupportable.

By Johntalbott

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5.7 Beaucoup, 7, rue Froissart in the 3rd, (Metro: St-Sebastien Froisssart), 01.42.77.38.47, open 7/7, is the third joint opened by Julien Fouin and Ludovic Dardenay, who brought us Glou and Jaja which I haven't exactly swooned over, but it came recommended, my friend who has a cabinet/apartment nearby and needs to scrurry back and forth was originally going to dine with me and it was open on Mondays, the new Saturdays here. 

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"It was the kind of a day," Guy Noir would say, "that patrons kept their watchcaps and puffy-coats on and where the waitresses wore fluffy sweaters and bulky scarfs."  And it had the kind-of an ambiance where at 12h30, 30 year olds, 85.7% of them fashionistas, some American, were having complex mixed cocktails.  They have superbly priced 2 and 3-course "menus" and an otherwise interesting carte and I decided to plunge in.

Now like Johnnie Carson's Carnac I will tell you the answers before the questions:
9 Decor
9 Welcome
7 Food
7 Inventiveness
6 Other diners
5 Prix-Qualité
-1 Waiting times between courses
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42÷7=5.7, you gotta problem with those maths?

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The wine (a Costieres de Nimes) was perfect, the ceviche of swordfish with minced agrumes and apples and flowers - terrific, and the sweetbreads with shitake (1), dense sauce and pasta, quite inventive.  Only the bread was horrible; the coffee, passable by Paris standards.

It took 30 minutes for the first course to arrive and 35 for the second - at which point the whirling dervish waitresses reminded me of a cross between the Avant Comptoir and Merci (the Concept Store's Restaurant) with the sound level of the mercifully closed Le Totem (6.8 without music, 7.5 dB with).

My bill, with 1/2 bottle of wine and the rest was 55 E.

Go?  If you're 30, or my age and want to raise the age average a few years, need cocktails, love long waits and have a hankering for frazzled waitresses, be my guest.  Udderwise, skip it.


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