Destinations Magazine

Abri in the 10th: Yah Mick and Keith: Gimme Shelter.

By Johntalbott

July-aug 2012 0307.1 Abri, 92, rue du Faubourg Poissonniere in the 10th,, serving 22 E 4-course meals at lunch and 38.50 E 6-course ones at dinner with sandwiches and bio drinks Mondays and Saturdays, has been open 3 weeks, another one to one hand clapping, in this case Jerome Berger of A Nous Paris, who gave it a rare 4/5 dots.  This is yet one more place you can and could and do easily walk by without noticing - sign outside way up high says City Cafe Sandwich, window confusing, minimalist interior with 20 covers; oh Boy; quick retreat across the street to scope two menus in nearby places if this joint turns out to be a disaster.

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Quick, before my two learned/sophistocated but luckily jetlagged friends show up - scan the menu and wine list: hummmm, not bad; sorriest for the blurs.  Let's see.  Already decide on my two entrees (mackerel and crab), main (veal) and dessert (chocolate) as well as red wine (Pompon Rouge from the Gard = 15 E, how bad can it be?)

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But, no, that's not the way it works here, the only choice is the main, so be it, however, the marinated mackerel with fennil, kombu, cucumber and we three swear citronelle and the tomatoes with what we three swear we heard - pizza crust - were a marvel.

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Then my two buddies had the lieu jaune and I the veal and I truly cannot tell you which was better they were both so good and good product and goodly undercooked and about as good as it gets.

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Dessert was the chocolate heaven on earth with thick caramel sauce - perfect.

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With a bottle of the red and a glass of Rose, no bottled water and only one coffee, our bill was 86.70 E for three, thus 57.80 E a couple.

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Go?  My goodness Yes!  The 5 Japanese young-folks who cook and serve here have grabbed a tiger by the tail; today they turned away at least 10 people at lunch who didn't have reservations and it's only going to get worse, so book early.

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