Art & Design Magazine

Works in Progress

By Mmadalynne @mmadalynne

works in progress 1 of 3 Works in Progress
 
Why do we reserve works in progress photos for Instagram? That’s not an always statement, but most of the time. Shouldn’t they be the subject of more in depth posts like finished features? Why mention the obstacles we faced after the garment’s complete when we can talk about them and solve them beforehand? Maybe it’s the surprise element? While I see that point of view, I’m more concerned with the quality of the end product rather than getting more hits. So, I’m going to try to talk about what I’m working on while I’m working on it so that we can work through the issues together, learn from one another and have a better product in the end. So, here is what I’m currently sewing.

First, isn’t the fabric for this blouse the best thing since sliced bread? I bought it a couple months ago on Etsy and it has sat on top of my sewing desk since. It’s a shame to put it away; it’s practically home décor. The final garment will be another version of Jasper Lee. Even thought it is an infantile make, there are still construction questions that have popped up.

Stabalizing shoulder seams is a de rigueur step. Because the garments weight is supported by this seam, it’s important that it’s strong enough to hold it up and not stretch out over time. But in the case of this top, it’s so lightweight that it doesn’t need it. Thoughts? My opinion is that using tape or a fusible would add unnecessary bulk to this crepe de chine. To justify my thinking, I inspected a couple of RTW, light-weight blouses. Nope, no stabilization! Now, mass manufacturing doesn’t always do it right, but they’re a good model. Also, I’ve yet to conquer my rolled/narrow hem foot. It’s a great presser foot, but passing a seam through it is not easy, even on silk, and it ends up looking like a hot mess at seamlines. I could hem the front and back separately before sewing them together at the side seam, but I’d like to have one continuous bottom hem. Any suggestions for how to pass a seam through this presser foot easily?
 

works in progress 2 of 3 Works in Progress

 
Pairing this top with a pair of red pants, you can see that I’m fashionable late for 4th of July. What can I say? In an effort to learn more about pants, I drafted a wide leg shape using the same pattern as Orla Madison and Jasper Lee. On Orla, I underlined it with a sturdy cotton and surprisingly, I loved the structure and stability it provided. But every time I wear Jasper Lee, which is not underlined, they stretch out halfway through the day, and I’m continually pulling them up from 12:00 PM on. I’m thnking of always underlining my pants with a sturdy yet lightweight fabric if it’s not made of a denim quality material. Does anyone else have experience with this? Claire Schaeffer suggested it in her book, “Couture Sewing Techniques.” Also, to try one new construction technique, I’m following Workroom’s Social’s tutorial on how to add a single welt pocket. I’ve sewn a welt before, but not like her tutorial. Going to give it a whirl.

Stay tuned!


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