The W Trek is one of the best ways to experience the epic scale and jaw-dropping landscapes of Torres del Paine in southern Patagonia.
It’s also a bit of a pain to organise.
When I was planning it, the hiking wasn’t the bit that stressed me out. The harder part was working out which direction to hike, where to sleep each night, what was actually available, and how to make the transport line up.
I hiked the W east to west over 5 days, starting from Laguna Amarga/Central and finishing at Paine Grande, where I took the catamaran back out across Lago Pehoé.
I booked fully equipped camping for all 4 nights (and ended up spending one of those nights in a refugio dorm). That meant I only needed to carry a daypack, which made the trek far more enjoyable than it would’ve been if I’d had to haul all of my own camping gear.
Here’s how the W works, the exact 5 day itinerary I followed, where I stayed, what I’d change next time, and the practical details I wish had been clearer before I booked.
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W Trek Route at a Glance
This is the route I followed.
- Direction: East to west
- Length: 5 days, 4 nights
- Start: Puerto Natales to Laguna Amarga, then shuttle to the Central sector
- Finish: Paine Grande, catamaran to Pudeto, then bus back to Puerto Natales
- My setup: Fully equipped camping, one refugio night, daypack only
- Best decision: Staying at Chileno before hiking to Base Torres
- Main thing I’d change: Try to stay at Cuernos instead of Francés
The route looked like this.
- Day 1: Puerto Natales to Chileno
- Day 2: Base Torres and back to Central
- Day 3: Central to Francés via Cuernos
- Day 4: Francés Valley and Británico, then on to Paine Grande
- Day 5: Grey Glacier and back to Paine Grande
This is a fairly standard 5 day W Trek itinerary, but the order and overnight stops really matter. One awkward campsite choice can make the whole route feel harder than it needs to be.
Is the W Trek Worth Doing?
Yes, the W Trek is 100% worth doing if you enjoy hiking and want a more immersive experience of Torres del Paine.
The big difference is that you stay inside the landscape for several days, moving through it, watching it change, becoming a part of it. You’re not driving in from Puerto Natales, stopping at viewpoints, then leaving again.
It’s often described as one of the best hikes in the world, and is certainly one of my favourite ones I’ve ever done.
Base Torres was one of the most awe-inspiring views I had anywhere in Patagonia. The Francés Valley and Británico viewpoint were right up there too, and the stretch past the Cuernos was probably my favourite part of the whole trek.
That said, I didn’t find every section equally brilliant. The walk from Paine Grande to Grey was my least favourite part. Grey Glacier itself is impressive, but the route felt less scenic to me, and I had heavy rain and 100 km/h wind that day, which didn’t help.
This is still a structured trek rather than a remote expedition. You’ll see plenty of other hikers, stay in organised camps or refugios, and need to book almost everything in advance. But once you’re on the trail, it does feel like a proper multi-day hike.
Anyone who likes the idea of Torres del Paine but doesn’t fancy 5 days of hiking should read my guide to visiting Torres del Paine without doing the W Trek instead. That version is better for scenic drives, shorter walks, proper beds, and a more flexible trip.
For me, though, the W was definitely worth it. I loved waking up already inside the park, and feeling the route build day by day instead of just dipping in and out.
East to West or West to East?
You can either hike the W Trek east to west or west to east. I went east to west, and I’d do it that way again.
The main reason is simple. You get the Base Torres climb done early, while your legs are still fresh. That climb is the toughest single part of the trek. I was glad I wasn’t saving the final rocky section for the last day.
East to west also gives the route a neat finish. After hiking to Grey Glacier, you return to Paine Grande, take the catamaran across Lago Pehoé to Pudeto, then connect back to Puerto Natales. It felt like a clean way to end the trek.
West to east can work well too. Some people like saving Base Torres as the final big payoff, and I get the appeal, especially if the weather behaves.
But, either way, I wouldn’t choose direction based only on which version sounds more satisfying. The best direction is the one you can actually book without awkward gaps or strange backtracking.
Accommodation availability shapes most W Trek itineraries. I’d start by choosing your preferred direction, then check what camps and refugios are actually available.
If east to west works, that’s the version I’d pick. If it doesn’t, west to east is still a perfectly good route. The scenery is the same either way.
My 5 Day East to West W Trek Itinerary
This is the route I followed, starting on the eastern side of the park and finishing at Paine Grande.
I think 5 days is the right length for this version of the W Trek. It still feels full, but you’re not racing through every section just to say you’ve done it.
You could compress parts of the route if you had to, but I wouldn’t. The whole point of hiking the W is being in Torres del Paine, not turning each day into a route march.
Day 1 – Puerto Natales to Chileno
The first day is mainly about getting into the park and positioning yourself for Base Torres the next morning.
I took an early bus from Puerto Natales to Laguna Amarga, then the shuttle to the Welcome Center near the Central sector.
Lots of fresh snow… an ominous start
From there, I started walking up towards Chileno. The hike is a steady uphill rather than a dramatic first day. But the views are great as you descend into the Chileno sector.
The main reason to stay at Chileno is location. It puts you much closer to Base Torres for the next morning, which makes a real difference. Without that, you’ll either have a much longer second day or need to spend two nights at Central (either side of doing the Torres).
I also thought the atmosphere at Chileno was much better than at Central. It might’ve just been the people who happened to be there at the time, but the vibe at Chileno felt much more communal, warm and friendly than Central, which is more polished and spread out.
I stayed in a fixed tent at Chileno, which made everything very straightforward. I didn’t have to set up camp, carry a tent, or do anything after arriving other than check in, grab a beer, and wait for dinner.
Facilities here are fairly basic, but it’s a great place to spend the night before the biggest climb of the trek.
Day 2 – Base Torres and Back to Central
I woke up early intending to make it up to Base Torres and back to Chileno again before lunch.
But there had been a storm overnight, snow was still falling hard on the upper stretch of the trail, and rangers had closed the final ascent until the weather improved. Time for extra helpings of breakfast.
Luckily, before too long, the staff at Chileno told us that the trail had reopened. A few people had left their backpacks in a corner of the refugio to collect again after returning from the Torres. I did the same, throwing on an extra layer and stashing some snacks in my pockets.
The first half of the trail was surprisingly gentle, but the final rocky climb was hard work. I was glad I’d left my backpack at the refugio.
For the last 30 minutes or so, I was trudging through slushy snow and slipping on icy rocks. It was steep, exposed in places, and slow going.
A kind person at the refugio had lent me a pair of crampons, which I used for the final icy stretch. I wouldn’t say they were essential – plenty of people were managing without them – but they did make it easier to grip in places.
By the time I reached the top, I definitely felt like I’d earned the view.
I’d seen photos of the towers countless times before going, but they feel much bigger than I’d imagined. It wasn’t the pristine, clear blue-sky postcard view of them I’d seen online though.
One moment the three enormous granite peaks would be completely hidden in the fog. Then suddenly, the wind would tear open the clouds and they’d suddenly loom above the icy lake, framed by swirling snow, before disappearing all over again.
Seeing them like that felt wild, unpredictable, and incredibly atmospheric. It was epic.
After spending half an hour being battered by wind and snow, I headed back down the same way. The descent is easier on the lungs but harder on the knees, especially on the rocky section near the top.
Take your time and don’t rush it, especially if the ground is icy. I slipped over a couple of times and it would’ve been very easy to twist something badly and ruin the rest of the trek.
From Chileno, I picked up my backpack and continued down to Central, where I stayed that night. Central has a lot more facilities than Chileno, and you can even stay in the fancy Las Torres Hotel if you feel like splashing out.
If not, the fixed tents at Camping Central are perfectly good too.
Day 3 – Central to Francés via Cuernos
This was one of my favourite days of the whole W Trek.
After the effort of Base Torres, the walk from Central towards Cuernos and Francés felt much more relaxed. You’re still covering a decent distance, but the scenery does a lot of the work for you.
The section around the Cuernos is gorgeous. You walk with the lake on one side and the mountains rising above you, and the views keep changing as you move along the trail. I kept stopping even when I didn’t really need a break.
This was also the day that made me wish I’d stayed at Cuernos. Camping Francés was fine, but Cuernos looked like the better place to spend the night. The setting felt more memorable, and if I did the W again, I’d try hard to book there instead.
That said, staying at Francés still worked logistically. It put me in a good position for the next day’s hike up the Francés Valley and on to Británico, which was one of the main reasons I’d chosen that stop.
This is a good example of how W Trek planning works in practice. The most scenic place to stay isn’t always the one you can actually book, and sometimes you just have to make the route fit around availability.
Day 4 – Francés Valley and Británico to Paine Grande
This was probably the biggest day of the trek in terms of payoff.
From Francés, I hiked up into the Francés Valley and continued towards the Británico viewpoint.
This section felt wilder and more enclosed than the previous days, with mountains all around and a proper sense of being deep inside the park.
The higher you go, the better it gets.
Británico was one of the highlights of the whole W Trek for me. The views are huge, and the setting feels more dramatic than some of the busier parts of the route.
It’s not a casual detour though. You need enough time and energy to go up and come back down before continuing to Paine Grande.
If the weather is poor or you’re moving slowly, this is the day where you need to make sensible decisions rather than just pushing on because the itinerary says so.
Some people turn back at Mirador Francés, which is about half way up. The views from there are spectacular, and there’s certainly no shame in only getting this far.
But if you can push on all the way up to Británico, I highly recommend it.
I was fortunate to have amazing weather on this day of my trek and I absolutely loved lying in the sun and taking in the 360 degree views. I lost track of how much time I spent up there.
After coming back down from the valley, I continued west towards Paine Grande. By the time I arrived, it was getting dark, and I was ready to stop. This is a full day, and it felt like one.
I stayed in the refugio at Paine Grande. I’d booked to stay in the campsite, but I think there’d been a mixup, the camping was overbooked, but there were free dorm beds available. Which felt like a massive upgrade after camping.
Was it luxurious? No.
Did it feel luxurious after a few nights in fixed tents? Very much so.
Having a proper indoor space, a bed, and somewhere to reset made a big difference before the final day.
The weather was also utter garbage that night with howling winds and heavy rain. So you can imagine how cosy I felt tucked up in my nice little bunk bed.
Day 5 – Grey Glacier and Back to Paine Grande
The final day is the out-and-back hike from Paine Grande towards Grey Glacier.
I’ll be honest, this was my least favourite section of the W.
The glacier itself is impressive, but the walk didn’t grab me in the same way as the Cuernos or Francés Valley sections. That may have been partly down to the weather, as the wind and rain from the previous night continued for most of the day.
Grey by name…
In better weather, I can imagine enjoying it more. In the weather I had, it felt like a slog. With 100 km/h wind and driving rain, I was soaked to my skin and miserable after about 30 minutes of leaving the refugio.
Battling the wind to take an average photo
Still, Grey Glacier is worth the effort. It’s not as dramatic as Perito Moreno Glacier just over the border in Argentina, but its sheer scale and the wild remoteness of its setting make it an impressive sight.
Once you get to Refugio Grey, don’t stop there and turn around immediately. Walk a bit further to the main lookout if you have enough time. That was where the view opened up properly for me.
The hanging bridges beyond Grey are meant to give even better views, but I didn’t include them on my route. With the weather I had, adding extra distance didn’t feel especially appealing.
After seeing the glacier, I hiked back the same way to Paine Grande, battling against the wind almost the whole way. Seriously, I don’t think I’ve ever been out in wind that strong before.
From there, I took the catamaran across Lago Pehoé to Pudeto, then connected back to Puerto Natales.
It was a satisfying way to finish. Not the most dramatic final hiking day, but a clean ending to the route. By that point, I was soaked, tired, and very ready for a hot shower in Puerto Natales.
What I’d Change If I Did the W Trek Again
My route worked well overall, but there are a couple of things I’d change if I did the W Trek again.
The main one is that I’d try harder to stay at Cuernos instead of Francés. Francés was fine – it did the job, and it worked for the next day’s hike into the Francés Valley.
But Cuernos had a much better setting. The whole section around there was one of my favourite parts of the trek, and I remember walking past thinking I’d rather be stopping there for the night. If there’s availability, that’s the swap I’d make first.
I’d also consider adding an extra night if time and budget allowed. The 5 day route works, and I’d happily recommend it, but it’s still quite full, especially once you include Británico and Grey.
An extra night around Cuernos or Paine Grande would make the whole thing feel less rushed. It would also give you more breathing room if the weather turns, which it probably will at some point.
I don’t think I’d change the direction. East to west worked well for me – getting Base Torres done early was the right call, and finishing at Paine Grande with the catamaran felt clean and simple.
I also wouldn’t change my accommodation setup. Using fully equipped camping meant I could carry a much lighter bag. It cost more, but I’d happily make the same decision again.
Camps and Refugios on the W Trek
The main W Trek sectors are Central, Chileno, Cuernos, Francés, Paine Grande and Grey. You won’t necessarily stay at all of them, but those are the key names you’ll keep seeing when you start planning.
Each one has a refugio and campsite. There are indoor dorms and/or glamping domes at all but Chileno, which only offers camping.
Choosing accommodation usually comes down to three things: what’s available, how far you want to walk each day, and whether you’re carrying your own gear.
My route was Chileno–Central–Francés–Paine Grande. That worked well, although I’d swap Francés for Cuernos if I could.
Fully Equipped Camping
This is what I used for most of the trek, and I’d choose it again.
With fully equipped camping, the tent is already set up for you. Depending on what you book, you can also have a sleeping bag, mat and meals included.
For me, the biggest benefit was weight. I only carried a daypack, which made a huge difference. The W Trek still has long days, but I didn’t need to haul a massive backpack full of heavy gear around the park.
That made the climbs to Base Torres and Británico, and the longer stretch towards Paine Grande much more enjoyable.
It also removed a lot of hassle. I didn’t have to set up a tent in bad weather, pack it down in the morning, or worry about cooking at the end of a long day.
The downside is that it’s quite a lot more expensive. But if you can afford it, I think it’s money well spent. I’d rather spend more and actually enjoy the hike than save money and spend 5 uncomfortable days resenting my backpack.
Refugios
I stayed in the refugio at Paine Grande, which felt like a treat.
A refugio isn’t a boutique hotel. It’s still basic shared accommodation in a remote national park. Think upmarket hostel dorm.
But after a few nights of camping, being indoors felt amazing. You get a bed, facilities, and a warmer place to rest. That matters more than you might think after several days of wind, rain, dust and tired legs.
Refugios are a good option if you want the lightest possible setup without camping. They’re also usually the most expensive way to do the W, especially if you add meals.
I wouldn’t say you need to stay in refugios. I thought the fixed tents were great. But it could be a nice way to treat yourself for one of your nights in the park.
Carrying Your Own Gear
Carrying your own tent, sleeping bag and food is the cheapest way to do the W Trek. Plenty of people do it, and it’s a completely valid option if you’re on a tighter budget and happy to haul a big, heavy backpack.
But it changes the feel of the trek. The trails themselves aren’t technical, but the days are long enough that extra weight matters. Add wind, rain and tired legs, and a heavy pack can make everything feel much harder.
I’m glad I didn’t do it that way. I love hiking, and I’ve done plenty of long backpacking trips carrying a tent and fully camping gear.
But the W trek doesn’t need to be a test of how much discomfort you can tolerate. There’s enough weather in Torres del Paine without adding unnecessary misery.
If you’re fit, experienced and happy carrying camping gear, go for it. If you’d rather enjoy the scenery with less weight on your back, book fixed tents or refugios and don’t feel guilty about it.
Which Camps I’d Try to Book First
If I were booking the W Trek again, I’d prioritise the overnight stops that make the route smoother.
Chileno would be high on my list. It puts you in a much better position for Base Torres and avoids making that day longer than it needs to be.
Cuernos would be the other one I’d try hard to get. The setting is better than Francés, and it sits on one of the most scenic parts of the route.
Paine Grande is useful because it works as the hub for the western side of the trek. It also makes the Grey Glacier day and catamaran exit straightforward.
Central is practical rather than exciting, but it works well after Base Torres if you’re following the east to west route. Grey is worth considering if you have more time around the glacier or want to continue to the hanging bridges without rushing.
For most people following a 5 day east to west route, I’d start by checking Chileno, Cuernos and Paine Grande. Once those are lined up, the rest of the route becomes much easier to shape.
How to Book the W Trek
In many ways, booking the W Trek was more hassle than actually hiking it. The route itself is simple once you’re on the trail. The headache is getting the accommodation, park entry, transport and dates to line up.
Accommodation drives everything. You can have the perfect route in your head, but if one campsite or refugio is full, the whole thing changes. I wouldn’t book flights, hotels or anything non-refundable until you know the key overnight stops are available.
Step 1 – Choose Your Dates
Start with a rough travel window, not one fixed set of dates. This gives you more room to move if your first choice of camps or refugios is already full.
Peak summer is the easiest time for weather and services, but it’s also when availability disappears fastest. If you’re planning for December to February, book as early as you can.
Step 2 – Choose Your Direction
Next, decide whether you want to hike east to west or west to east.
I hiked east to west, and I’d pick that direction again. It gets Base Torres done early and gives the trek a clean finish at Paine Grande.
But don’t get too precious about it. If west to east has better availability and gives you a smoother route, take it.
Step 3 – Check Accommodation Before Anything Else
Before booking anything else, check availability for your overnight stops. For my east to west route, the key stops were Chileno, Central, Francés (or Cuernos) and Paine Grande.
I’d check Chileno first because it makes the Base Torres day much easier. Then I’d look at Cuernos or Francés, followed by Paine Grande.
Once those pieces fit together, the route starts to make sense. If they don’t, adjust the direction, dates or number of nights before committing to anything.
Step 4 – Decide Whether You Want Fixed Tents, Refugios or Your Own Gear
This decision changes both the cost and the feel of the trek.
I used fixed tents for most nights and one refugio night at Paine Grande. That meant I could hike with a daypack rather than carrying camping gear. For me, it was well worth the extra money.
The W Trek is already several days of hiking in unpredictable weather, and I didn’t feel any great need to make it harder.
If you’re trying to save money, carrying your own gear is the cheapest option. If you want the lightest and most comfortable setup, refugios are easiest. Fixed tents sit somewhere in the middle, and that’s the option I’d choose again.
Step 5 – Book Your Overnight Stops
Once you’ve found a route that works, book your camps or refugios. Don’t leave a key night sitting in your basket while you think about it for a week. Availability can change quickly, and one missing night can wreck the whole plan.
Pay close attention to what’s included. Some bookings include meals, bedding or sleeping bags. Others don’t. Some require you to add extras separately. Check the current booking terms, meal inclusions and cancellation rules before paying.
This is dull admin, but it matters. You don’t want to arrive after a long day and realise you assumed dinner was included when it wasn’t.
Step 6 – Buy Your Park Ticket
After your accommodation is confirmed, buy your Torres del Paine park entry. You’ll need this before entering the park, and it’s much easier to sort it online in advance than deal with it in a rush at the entrance.
Keep a copy available offline. There is virtually no phone signal in Torres del Paine, and the last thing you want is to be standing at Laguna Amarga unable to load a confirmation email.
Step 7 – Sort Transport Into and Out of the Park
For an east to west route, you’ll usually take the bus from Puerto Natales to Laguna Amarga, then the shuttle to the Central sector. At the end, you take the catamaran from Paine Grande to Pudeto, then connect with the bus back to Puerto Natales.
The details aren’t difficult, but the timings matter. The catamaran doesn’t run constantly, so don’t assume you can finish hiking whenever you like and casually drift out of the park. Check the latest schedule before you build your final day around it.
For the full transfer breakdown, read my Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine transport guide.
Step 8 – Book Puerto Natales Before and After
You’ll probably need at least one night in Puerto Natales before the trek and one after it.
The night before is useful for sorting gear, buying snacks, repacking your bag and getting an early start without stress. The night after is for a long shower, proper food and remembering what it feels like not to sleep in a tent.
I recommend staying somewhere central and practical. I stayed at Hostal Andes Patagonicos which was comfortable and great. They were also happy to look after my bigger bags while I was doing the trek.
How Hard Is the W Trek?
The W Trek is challenging, but it’s not technical. You don’t need mountaineering experience, and you don’t need to be an elite hiker. You do need to be comfortable walking for several hours a day, then getting up and doing it again the next day. And the next.
The difficulty comes from distance, weather, long days on your feet, and how much you’re carrying.
For me, the hardest single section was Base Torres. It’s a long climb, and the final rocky part takes effort, especially if it’s icy. You gain height steadily, but you have to work for the last bit.
The rest of the route felt more like endurance than anything else. Some days are long, but the trail is generally straightforward.
Bad weather can make an easy section feel much harder though.
My day to Grey Glacier had 100 km/h wind and horizontal rain. On paper, it was supposed to be one of the easiest days. In reality, it was a slog. I genuinely considered turning back at one point.
The weight of your backpack also matters a lot. If I’d carried a tent, sleeping bag, food and cooking gear, I’d have found it much harder.
If you hike regularly and have decent fitness, you should be fine. If you rarely walk long distances, I’d do some training first.
What to Pack for the W Trek
Pack for bad weather, even if the forecast looks good. Torres del Paine often throws sun, rain, wind and snow at you on the same day.
I did the trek in December (i.e. the middle of summer) and a snowstorm nearly stopped me from reaching Base Torres.
A good waterproof jacket is essential. Don’t bring a flimsy city raincoat and hope for the best. You need something that can handle proper wind and rain.
Warm layers matter too. Even in summer, mornings and evenings can be cold.
Good hiking shoes or boots are also important. The trail isn’t technical, but you’ll be walking on uneven ground for hours, and a few sections are rocky, so you’ll want proper grip and support.
The one thing I really wish I’d packed was waterproof trousers. They would’ve made life much more pleasant on my Grey Glacier day.
If you’re using fixed tents or refugios, you can keep your pack much lighter. That’s what I did, and I was glad for it. It meant I only had to carry clothes, waterproofs, snacks, water, basic toiletries, and the bits I needed during the day.
My Basic W Trek Packing List
- Waterproof jacket
- Waterproof trousers
- Warm fleece or insulated layer
- Hiking trousers or leggings
- Base layers
- Good hiking socks
- Hiking shoes or boots
- Hat and gloves
- Sun hat and sunglasses
- Sunscreen
- Refillable water bottle(s)
- Snacks for the trail
- Head torch
- Power bank
- Dry bags or waterproof liners
- Basic toiletries
- Blister plasters
- Small first aid kit
- Earplugs if you’re a light sleeper
- Lightweight towel
- Offline maps or downloaded route information
I drink a lot of water, so I brought two big reusable water bottles. Most streams on the W Trek are clean enough to drink from without filtering. It’s just melted snow and glacier water straight from the mountains, with nothing to pollute it.
It’s some of the purest, tastiest water I’ve ever drunk. Just be sure to fill up your bottle from fast-flowing water. The refugios have taps too, but that water comes straight from the streams as well.
Tasty nature
You don’t need loads of spare clothes. You do need warm and breathable layers that work together, waterproofs that actually keep water out, and enough dry kit to change into.
I’d rather repeat an outfit than carry a stupidly heavy bag for 5 days. Nobody on the W Trek cares if you look stylish.
How Much Does the W Trek Cost?
The W Trek isn’t a cheap hike. The trail itself may be free to walk once you’re inside the park, but everything around it adds up quickly.
Accommodation, meals, park entry, transport and the catamaran can easily make this one of the most expensive parts of a Chile trip.
The biggest cost is where you sleep. If you carry your own tent and food, you can keep the price down. If you book fixed tents, refugios and meals, the cost rises fast.
I spent more so I could keep my setup lighter, and I don’t regret that at all. For me, this was the right place to spend. It made the trek easier to enjoy, which mattered more to me than saving money and being miserable on the trail.
These are the main costs to expect (in USD).
- Park entry: $50–55
- Accommodation (per person per night, two sharing):
- Refugio dorm bed: $200–230
- Fully-equipped camping: $150–160
- Semi-equipped camping: $110–120
- Campsite with your own tent and gear: $40–50/night
- (Note: Paine Grande is operated by a different company and costs about half of the above for each option.)
- Meals if you book them through the camps: $110–140/day full board (can also PAYG)
- Return bus from Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine: $38
- Shuttle from Laguna Amarga to the Central sector: $3–5
- Catamaran from Paine Grande to Pudeto: $30
- Accommodation in Puerto Natales before and after the trek: $60–120/night
- Snacks and any last-minute gear: $40–75
Food is one of the sneaky costs. If you book meals at the camps and refugios, it’s convenient but expensive. If you carry your own food, you’ll save money but add weight.
I went for convenience, and I was happy with that choice. After a long day hiking in Patagonian weather, not having to cook felt like a luxury.
Decide early whether you care more about saving money or keeping the trek comfortable.
For a wider look at trip budgets, read my Chile travel costs guide.
Best Time to Do the W Trek
The easiest time to do the W Trek is during the main hiking season, roughly November to March.
I hiked it in December, and I think that was a good choice. Everything was running, the days were long, and the route felt straightforward to organise once I had the bookings sorted.
But December still didn’t mean perfect weather. I had sun, snow, cloud, heavy rain and strong wind during the trek. 4 seasons in one day, literally. That’s pretty normal.
Summer gives you the best chance of decent conditions, but it’s still Patagonia. Torres del Paine will still do what it wants. And summer tends to be the windiest season.
December to February is the busiest period. You’ll get the widest range of services and the most predictable access, but you’ll also need to book earlier and accept that the popular sections of trail won’t feel quiet.
November and March can be good alternatives, but you might need to be more flexible around weather, services and availability.
If this is your first W Trek, I’d aim for December to March unless you have a strong reason not to.
For wider timing across Patagonia and the rest of Chile, check out my best time to visit Chile guide.
Mistakes to Avoid
The W Trek isn’t complicated once you’re there. Most mistakes happen before you arrive.
Leaving Accommodation Too Late
This is the big one. If you leave booking too late, you might not be able to do it at all.
Or, there’ll be a few spaces left, but the route will be awkward, with longer days, strange gaps, and overnight stops that don’t really make sense.
I’d start with accommodation before anything else. Once your camps or refugios are booked, the rest of the trip becomes much easier to build.
Getting Too Attached to One Perfect Route
It’s useful to know your ideal direction and overnight stops. But don’t be rigid.
The availability of accommodation will likely shape your W Trek route more than your personal preferences. If your first choice doesn’t work, adjust the dates, direction or camp order.
Underestimating Base Torres
Base Torres is worth the effort, but it isn’t an easy little morning walk. The final section is steep, rocky and slow, especially in poor weather.
I was glad I stayed at Chileno the night before because it made the day much more manageable. If Base Torres is one of your main reasons for doing the W, plan that part carefully.
Carrying More Than You Need
A heavy pack changes the whole experience. I only carried a daypack, and that made a massive difference to how much I enjoyed the trek.
If you’re experienced and happy carrying full camping gear, fine. But remember, you don’t get a medal for being uncomfortable.
Ignoring the Catamaran Timing
If you finish at Paine Grande, you need to make sure your hike back from Grey leaves enough room for you to catch the catamaran. I’d book the latest one in the day to give you the most time.
Missing it would be a very annoying way to end the trek.
Packing for the Forecast Instead of the Place
The forecast can look fine and be wrong. Pack for all possibilities. Don’t trust the forecast.
That means proper waterproofs, warm layers and shoes that can handle rocky trail and wet ground.
I wish I’d brought waterproof trousers. I wouldn’t make that mistake again.
Trying to Make Every Section Feel Epic
Some parts of the W are better than others. For me, Base Torres, the Cuernos section and Británico were the clear highlights. Grey Glacier was worth seeing, but the walk there was my least favourite part.
That’s fine. You don’t need every hour to be spectacular.
