It’s a story that could be turned into a movie. A young Cornishman named John Lobb injures his leg and is unable to carry out his family’s farmwork, so he sets out to become a shoemaker. Traveling from Cornwall to London, he hopes to get an apprenticeship at the leading shoemaking firm Thomas, only to be turned away. Disappointed, but undeterred, the young Lobb tells the company he’ll be back.
And he did return, although not in a way that anyone would have expected. Unable to find work in London, Lobb immigrated to Australia, where he became a bootmaker to the many miners working the Gold Rush. His claim to fame: boots with hollowed out heels, which allowed sneaky miners to conceal gold nuggets in their shoes. Soon after, he entered and won a number of competitions, became a bootmaker to the Prince of Wales, earned a Royal Warrant, and returned to London to set up what would eventually become one of the greatest shoemaking firms in history. Thomas, of course, is long gone, but John Lobb remains – nearly a hundred and fifty years after its founding.
I went to see the firm when William Lobb, fifth generation in his family’s business, was in San Francisco over the weekend. With him were about three-dozen pairs of shoes – from elasticized slip-ons to classic oxfords to Norwegian boots. What impresses me most about the company are those beautifully shaped lasts. Although you can get anything made through bespoke, my sense is that – much like with bespoke tailors – it’s best to choose a company whose house style you admire. For Lobb, that’s a certain kind of shapely English style that’s hard to describe, but easy to recognize. Soft, almond-shaped toes; tight waists; and curvy, slightly-canted heels. Their shoes have a silhouette that’s reminiscent of 1930s Esquire drawings.
Unlike some makers, Lobb doesn’t create their lasts by modifying pre-existing Springline forms. Instead, everything is chopped down from roughly turned pieces of wood (which have the rough shape of feet, but none of the artistic shaping). They also don’t conduct fittings. A client’s shoes are delivered about six months after measurements are taken, and then the client reports back on whether adjustments need to be made. This allows them to expedite their overseas orders. The fit guarantee, I’m told, ensures that nothing is compromised in the end.
I’ve been thinking about getting my first pair of bespoke shoes next year. Maybe a pair of simple chukkas or a casual Norwegian split-toe. Still undecided on the company, although John Lobb is at the top of the list.
