One of the things I dig about Europe is how it always gives you a different perspective on Western traditions that we have learnt through Hollywood.
Take Santa Claus, for example. He lives on North Pole, right? And on 25 December, he goes around the world on a red reindeer sleigh with his elves throwing presents down chimneys in red socks, right?
Wrong, if you live in the Netherlands. For here, Sinterklass (yes, same old bearded paunchy man in a white beard) lives in sunny Spain, and lands in Dutch towns and cities on a steam boat around the mid-November. He parades through the town on a white horse called Amerigo with great pomp along with his helper called Zwarte Piet or Black Peter. Sinterklass and Black Peter make appearances all through the city or town throwing cookies and candies at children till 5 December, Sinterklass’s birthday. On this day, known as St Nicholas’s Eve, Black Peter throws presents down the chimneys for kids into shoes. By next morning, Netherlands is done and dusted with Sinterklass. Christmas will be a quiet family day for them.
The tradition is also followed in Belgium, and Netherlands claims that it was the Dutch immigrants who took the tradition to America and Canada with them in the 18th and 19th centuries from where it spread to the rest of the world.
As a tourist, this time between mid-November and 5 December is a great time to visit the Netherlands or Belgium. The streets will be full of happy families out for some fun, decked-out shops, and lots of people dressed as Sinterklass and more so, Zwarte Piet throwing candies and cookies at children.
The shops are full of little Dutch handicrafts that only come-out during this period, and the goodies to eat are kruidnoten or ginger bread cookies, Schuimpjes or sugar and cream cookies in the shape of Sinterklaas and Zwarte Piet, taai taai, marzipan and chocolade letters or chocolate cut out in the shape of alphabets.
The tradition of Sinterklaas and Zwarte Piet throwing cookies goes back to the legend that Sinterklaas once saved two girls from prostitution by throwing gold coins to them. Now, Zwarte Piet is a controversial figure in our modern times, and you may or may not like him. Because usually the little black helper of Sinterklaas is a young boy with his face painted charcoal black – which some people think is racist. Most Dutch think it is just fun and stick with it.
The Dutch throw parties for their friends and families on 5 December and under no circumstance turn down an invitation, if you are lucky enough to cadge one. There will be lots of good-natured singing, dancing, games and bizarrely – enough poetry writing. For the Dutch in these parties write poems for each other which are read aloud – but considering the Dutch reputation for forthrightness, it can lead to some embarassing revelations. It is all in good spirit though. Remember to carry small gifts, by the way.
You may not have a lot of days left to enjoy the Santa Claus, the Dutch way, this year. But there is always next year. Come and join the Dutch people as they greet their Sinterklass lustily with this lovely song.
“Zie ginds komt de stoomboot
uit Spanje weer aan.
Hij brengt ons Sint-Nicolaas
ik zie hem al staan.�
“Look, here comes the steam boat, from Spain. It brings to us St. Nicolaas, we can see him standing.�
