Company
Brewery Ommegang started in 1997 through a collaboration between Don Feinberg and Wendy Littlefield, owners of Vanberg & DeWulf the legendary beer import company, as well as a couple of other family owned Belgian breweries, including Duvel Moortgat (Ommegang’s current owner). Sitting on the site of a former hop farm near Cooperstown, New York, Ommegang was one of the first breweries specializing in Belgian beers in the U.S. It has grown rapidly over the past 16 years, and currently produces about 35,000 barrels annually (Sam Adams, for instance, produces about 2.5 million barrels). Ommegang has become a fan favorite among beer aficionados throughout the U.S., including the creators of the HBO series Game of Thrones, who have worked with Ommegang on “Thrones” inspired brews (the latest, Take the Black Stout, is brewed with licorice root and star anise). Along the way, Ommegang has also made a point of embracing its community, most recently by speaking out against the negative effects fracking to the Upstate New York water supply. Ommegang is also working to bring back the once-booming hop industry to the state.
Fracking in Upstate New York
Fracking is the process of fracturing rock, many times shale, with a pressurized liquid to extract minerals or other resources trapped in the rock. Upstate New York, in and around the Cooperstown area, sits on a particularly rich area of shale known as the Marcellus Formation, which has become a large source of natural gas. For years, mining gas reserves in the Marcellus Formation was spotty at best, but with the advent of newer technology, the reserves have become much easier to reach. Although many saw this as a great opportunity for a number of communities Upstate, other saw this as a potential disaster. One of those who sensed disaster was Ommegang’s PR and Creative Services Manager Larry Bennett. After reading about fracking, and its potential consequences in 2010, Mr. Bennett prepared a presentation for his executive management team at Ommegang, as well as those at the parent company Duvel. In his presentation, Mr. Bennett included information about what would happen to Ommegang if fracking chemicals entered the ground water. Essentially, it would leave Ommegang with only two likely options: 1) import water to the brewery, which could be cost prohibitive or 2) move the brewery to a separate location, thus eliminating close to 100 jobs.
Neither was particularly appealing to Mr. Bennett and the management team at Ommegang, and they decided to become an outspoken opponent of the potentially harmful effects of fracking. Brewery officials met with policy makers in the in Albany, wrote amicus briefs supporting other organizations’ claims against the fracking process, and hosted events in the community with representatives from area towns and businesses. This three year ordeal has shown Ommegang that it is not alone in its crusade. Other high profile “anti-frackers” in the brewing industry include Brooklyn Brewery, which gets most of its water from aquifers Upstate, as well as smaller start ups and regional favorites such as Keegan Ales. Fracking remains a divisive issue in New York, but Mr. Bennett remains hopeful that lawmakers and residents will understand that the harmful effects of fracking at this point, both economic and environmental, outweigh the good.
Hop Farming
Fracking could also affect other agricultural industries Upstate, including the area’s burgeoning hop industry. Throughout the 1800′s, Upstate New York was one of the top hop-producing areas in the world. However, a blight in the early part of the 1900′s, coupled with Prohibition, put most of the farmers out of business. The boom in craft beer is reversing that trend, as a number of farmers, and start ups, are seeking to turn the Upstate region into a hop growing region that rivals that of the Pacific Northwest. With the same zeal that it is standing up to fracking, Ommegang is currently working with communities to assist in the development of hop farming. Currently, Ommegang is working with Cornell University on researching the best hops for the regions. The brewery, which sits on the site of a former hop farm, is in the process of testing about 15 varietals of hops, and expects to have a larger crop in the coming years. Although it will take a lot of time and energy to get the hop industry up and running again, Mr. Ellison and Ommegang remain optimistic about its chances for the future. Mr. Ellison was quick to point out that the communities upstate are tight, and that everyone sees the potential and is looking to pitch in.
As mentioned, Ommegang produces only Belgian-style beers, and Hennepin, named in honor of missionary Fr. Louis Hennepin, is Ommegang’s take on a rustic style saison. It pours a beautiful golden yellow with a nice protective head. On the nose, there are hints of sweet fruit, and spicy yeast. The beer tastes similar to its smell, and is very crisp and refreshing. Be careful though, Hennepin clocks in at 7.7% abv. Hennepin is definitely a world class saison (apparently, one of the first in the U.S.), and one that I have served on a number of occasions with my holiday meals.
Beer Advocate: 4.16/5
Rate Beer: 3.69/5
Mac’s Untappd – 5/5
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