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Saison beers originated in the French speaking area of southern Belgium, and were traditionally brewed in the late fall or winter for consumption, usually by farmers, in the summer. As such, most saisons were traditionally brewed at a low alcohol, and can probably be referred to as some of the first lawnmower beers. Although saisons are tough to pinpoint from a style perspective as they varied from farm to farm, among saison producers, there is one brewery that stands above all others: Brasserie Dupont. Already firmly established in the world beer scene for their bottle-conditioned products, in 1990, they became pioneers, being one of the first Belgian breweries to produce a line of organic beers.
The current site of Brasserie Dupont is situated on the Rimaux-De Ridder farm-brewery, which was established in 1844 in Tourpes, Belgium, a village in the southwest of the country near France. Over time, the brewery became relatively well-known in the region for its delicious beers and food (to this day, Brassier Dupont brews an historical “honey beer” similar to those brewed at Rimaux). Years later, in 1920, Louis Dupont, an agricultural engineer, was ready to pack his bags for a new life in Canada. His father, in an attempt to get his son to stay, purchased the farm in Rimaux for him. It worked. Louis stayed, and since that time, the Dupont family has worked to maintain the quality of the brewery, and they even produce artisanal breads and cheeses. In 1990, Brasserie Dupont began producing a line of certified organic beers (currently at 5), meaning that they purchase and use only certified organic produce in the brewing process and refrain from adding any chemicals/preservatives. To a degree, this was not much of a change for Brasserie Dupont, as they had been brewing in the same way since the early part of the 1900s, working with community farmers and producing what they can on site. Although Brasserie Dupont does not have a flashy website, sustainability reports, bike programs, or any number of popular programs some US breweries have, it is quietly maintaining a way of life (and beer) pioneered long before you had to use the words “craft beer” to describe it.
Beer – Avril
Belgian beers, especially saisons, are quite the rage now in the US, and rightfully so. Their light, refreshing body and subtle flavors are suitable for most palates. Saison Dupont’s most well-known issue, Vielle Provision, is amazing, and they have been putting out variations on that theme, one of which being Avril (known in Europe as “Biolegere”), a traditional saison brewed with very low (3.5%) alcohol. As with other Saison Dupont beers, it comes in a 750 ml bottle capped with a cork. After letting out a very loud pop upon opening, the beer poured a cloudy, hazy yellow, reminiscent of straw and hay, and with significant (and aesthetically pleasing) head (see right). The smell was very faint, but you could detect a little bit of apples and maybe some dried grass. On first sip, the light Belgian yeast is present, and as on the nose, there are some subtle grassy notes, with a very faint hoppy, somewhat spicy finish. It was incredibly carbonated. Overall, aside from the carbonation, the key word through all of this (smells, flavors) is “subtle.” It is very crisp and refreshing (think Hoegaarden turned way down on spice), and well-worth it for those interested in true Belgian styles. As it lists on its label, this is “table beer” which as you can guess, similar to wine, means that this is for everyday drinking.
Ratebeer: 3.36/5
Beer Advocate: 3.93/5
