Alfajores
If you’ve ever been to Argentina, you’ll know that people here have a sweet tooth to rival even the most insane chocolate producers. A coffee normally comes with at least 4 substantial sachets of sugar, and you are sure to find at least 5 kioskos per block in Buenos Aires, all selling a wide range of confectionary. One of the most common demonstrations of the sweet Argentine tooth is their love for dulce de leche. Made from condensed milk, it is similar to caramel and can be used in all manner of food stuffs, from breakfast pastries to deserts. This is where alfajores come into the picture.
The alfajor is a national obsession. It is made up from layer(s) of dulce de leche sandwiched between biscuit, usually coated with something else sweet. Alfajors come in all shapes and sizes, and are usually priced between one and seven pesos (at least at the time of writing… this could increase by 25% within the week, depending on inflation). The issue though, is which alfajor is the right one? Well, here is what’s going to happen: I am going to compare several different species of alfajores and I am going to reveal the answer. If I can decide for myself that is…
I will be evaluating the relative merits and downsides of the different brands in the following criteria: Appearance, size, coating, biscuit, dulce de leche, traditionalism, branding/packaging, and overall. It’s all very scientific.
Let’s get started…
1. Jorgito’s
This is a nice-looking alfajor. It has dusty icing on the outside which certainly adds a little bit of class to it, as well as making it look more homemade. It’s not the chunkiest one your going to find on the market either, but it is still a decent weight at 60g.
The icing adds a nice crispness to it, which counteracts the smooth inside quite nicely, however as I am not a massive fan of icing, this isn’t quite my cup of tea. Call me a philistine if want, it won’t make me change my mind. The balance of dulce de leche and biscuit is one of Jorgito’s strengths. Neither filling overpowers the other. The biscuit is soft a mildly flavoured and the dulce de leche is nice enough. I would say that this is quite a traditional alfajor and it does the basics well. As for the packaging, whilst I like the retro syle and the idea of Jorgito’s picture being involved, I intensely dislike Jorgito himself. I find he looks far too mischievous and I do not trust him.
Overall, I’d say eating this was a rather light and enjoyable eating experience, but there is something missing. A very confused alfajor. 7.5/10.
2. Guaymallen
The Guaymallen alfajor is a tricky one. It only costs $1 and is apparently mainly just something kids buy with their pocket money after school, for example. However, I do not feel this is any reason to make a shoddy alfajor, so I’m going to be ruthless.
It looks a bit measly (only 38g), but the dulce de leche overflowing from the sides is very appealing to me. However, as soon as I bite in to it I am greeted with dry but flimsy biscuit, poor quality dulce de leche and, most devastatingly, awful chocolate. The kind of chocolate you used to get in penny sweets, which is not something that i’d ever wish for. The alfajor is also not very traditional, even in its shape.
The packaging could be worse, but looks cheap nonetheless. Overall, this was not in any way enjoyable (but I ate it anyway). Tastes like cardboard. 2/10.
3. Cofler BLOCK
This looks big, and weighing in at 60g and with a height of more than 3 cm, I’d say it is. However, given its size, 60g would suggest that it is not the densest in the bunch. The chocolate coating is pretty great: It is not layered too thick, but it melts nicely in your mouth. It is once you bite inside the BLOCK, however, that it dawns on you that this is no ordinary alfajor. The biscuit is crunchy, and there are 3 layers of it. It is chocolate biscuit and it contains praline-esque flecks. Not only this, but there is no dulce de leche! Instead, there are two layers of “peanut cream” in its place. All-together, this creates a very nutty, very chocolaty taste more in keeping with a cookie than an alfajor. I would prefer dulce de leche, but that just how I am. It is, therefore, in no way traditional.
The big yellow package is appropriate: chunky with no frills. Overall, I enjoyed eating it and I did find it filling, but it is not really an alfajor. Does exactly what it says on the tin. 5/10.
4. Terrabusi (x3 con Dulce de Leche)
This is the monster of the store-bought alfajor kingdom. Stacked high with 3 layers of biscuit, 2 layers of dulce de leche, covered in dark chocolate and weighing in at 70g, this is bigger, richer and stronger than the BLOCK. Not for the faint of heart, but for the real alfa-males. However, at the same time, the guys at Terrabusi have managed to strike a great balance between dulce de leche and biscuit. The dulce de leche is good quality and very smooth, whilst the biscuit is soft and fluffy, though not incredible. I’m impressed by the filling, as you would expect quality to have been reduced in favour of quantity, though thankfully this is not the case.
Obviously, this is not very traditional. Treat it as the big-budget sequel which, whilst not quite as original as the first, still holds its own and some might even prefer it: Back to the Future II, if you will. The packaging is no nonsense: it looks big in the picture and it is. By all accounts, appropriate.
However, I do think the gold could be changed for something a bit darker and more ominous. I would say that, overall, this is a big, filling, and all-round good alfajor. If size isn’t your thing, then leave this one well alone. Saying that, it is in no way unmanageable. Not delicate, but very good. 7/10.
5. Cachafaz (white chocolate)
This Alfajor looks lovely. It’s not perfectly formed, but that is part of its charm as it is presented as a more rustic alfajor. The white chocolate is also a bit against the grain, but in a good way. It’s pretty thin in comparison with some of the others but it still weighs in at 60g, making it a pretty dense affair. It really feels weighty in your hands, which is a sure sign of quality, right? The white chocolate coating is quite thick on top and very rich and creamy, something I appreciate, and I feel accentuates the dulce de leche beautifully. Honestly. Furthermore, there is a nice thick layer of dulce de leche inside, constituting about half of the entire filling, and it’s pretty high-grade stuff too. The biscuit is also very nice. Soft, dense and nicely flavoured. I would say that this is pretty traditional. It is soft and gooey like a good alfajor should be, although the white chocolate coating adds a really avant-garde (and welcome) twist.
As for the packaging, it is a thing of beauty. Simply wrapped in foiled paper, it feels as if it has been made especially for you. To be honest, the packaging may have had quite an impact on my opinion with regards to this alfajor, but who am I to fight it. This is a great alfajor overall: rich, creamy, dense, well-presented and delicious, with plenty of dulce de leche. In my opinion, this is as good a store-bought alfajor as you’re likely to find. 9/10.
6. Bakery-bought (de Panadería)
This cost $6, so it is not directly comparable, especially to the humble Guaymallen alfajor, but what is a couple of Pesos in the quest for the perfect alfajor! And anyway, it’s quite something. It resembles a little cake more than an alfajor, but it is nicely dusted with icing sugar on top, and has little coconut flakes on the outside of the dulce de leche. Oh, and it’s really big and really heavy. If this were alfajor top trumps it would take some beating in this department. Weight: unknown.
As far as the biscuit criterion goes, I have to point out that this is leaning more towards being a Victoria sponge or shortbread than your usual alfajor content. The cake, I’ll call it, does have a delicious vanilla flavour, and is firm but by no means dry. As for the dulce de leche, the amount overflowing around the outsides is excellent, but there is less on the inside. A little extra in the center would be desirable.
It would be hard for this to get more traditional, although possibly the cake to dulce de leche ratio is a little high. However, back in the day, all alfajores were hand-made, so it’s hard to pinpoint what exactly constitutes traditional as far as bakery-bought ones are concerned. The packaging is simple paper and paced in a little paper muffin cup, which suits me just fine. It’s the way things should be.
Overall, I really enjoyed this one. It felt like more of a treat than the store-bought varieties, and was only a couple of pesos more. Buying baked goods from a bakery always just feels better. Even though I had already eaten my weight in alfajores, this went down an absolute treat. 9/10.
To Conclude
After evaluating the different aspects of various alfajores, we can adjudge the following rankings table to be near-gospel.
- Alfajor de Panadería/Confitería
- Cachafaz (White Chocolate)
- Jorgito’s (in spite of his unbearable face)
- Terrabusi (x3 Dulce de Leche)
- Cofler BLOCK
- Guaymallen
This is not up for discussion and was 100% objective. Yes, there are others out there, but I just can not eat any more, at least for the foreseeable future. Alternatives will therefore not be considered until I’m good and ready. Although I guess now I do need to find the best bakery in Buenos Aires…
Thank you and I hope this aids your decision-making in the future.
