Europe's hedonists are increasingly ditching the Mediterranean for the mountains-particularly the posh Dolomites, in favor of the cooler climate, healthy lifestyle, and phenomenal spas. Upscale spa-and-ski hotels in the Dolomites, such as Relais & Chateaux Hotel Capella and Gardena Grödnerhof Hotel and Spa, are crediting this surge in summer occupancy. But there's a clique that's been quietly avoiding the scorching coastal summers for a while now-they're all about the cinematic Pale Mountain summer.
From hotels with steaming outdoor pools overlooking rural valleys to sunny restaurant terraces where you can tuck into a leisurely lunch, here's how to spend your summer in the Dolomites (without avoiding the sizzling, overpriced Mediterranean).
Stay
Some legendary Dolomite hotels are so spoiled that you'd be forgiven for staying a whole week. COMO Alpina Dolomites (comohotels.com) is one of them, and after a major reboot, this architecturally modern marvel on the Alpe di Siusi is still as striking as ever. In contrast to St Moritz, discreet opulence comes here to recharge in the COMO Shambhala Retreat spa, with its Finnish sauna, and to relax on the terraces (after Sound of Music-style hikes) of crisp white glass. Here, Alpine Two is eschewed for basic, contemporary design, as is Forestis (forestis.it), whose angular, Nordic beauty dramatically accentuates the surrounding landscape of pines and peaks; or My Arbor (my-arbor.com), a luxurious adults-only "treehouse" hotel with a superb spa.
Rosa Alpina (aman.com) takes the middle ground in terms of aesthetics - a fresh twist on wooden Alpine classicism with Aman's sleek signature spa. Here you can run on horseback in summer, paraglide through the crisp air and cool off in pools overlooking the pine forest. It's set to reopen in 2025.
Tyrolean Adler Spa Resort Dolomiti (adler-resorts.com) is a family favourite for its fantastic kids' club (and parents for its lakeside outdoor pools and saunas), while Relais & Châteaux's Gardena Grödnerhof Hotel & Spa (relaischateaux.com) is another luxe, turreted base for the Alpe di Siusi and Resciesa hiking trails. It's all rounded off with Ayurvedic treatments in the Italian family-run hotel's wood-panelled spa.
For wellness with a touch of art, Relais & Chateaux's Hotel Cappella (relaischateaux.com) in the pretty village of Colfosco dresses its traditional wooden walls with a variety of artworks, while long-time families weave between the indoor and outdoor pools. Those seeking a slice of Heidi life with the utmost privacy should book a Leo Trippi (leotrippi.com) chalet, such as the beautifully restored Casa Tra Cime farmhouse (from €6,600 for eight adults and two children).
To eat
Dolomiti insider Oliver Corkhill of Viadi Group recommends foodies head to Alta Badia - "a culinary hotspot in the Dolomites" - where palate-altering dishes and wines range from Michelin-starred restaurants to traditional mountain huts at the end of hikes. For lunch, Corkhill recommends making a reservation at the three-Michelin-starred Atelier Moessmer, where chef Norbert Niederkofler "stays true to his belief in cooking the mountain" with seasonal menus that include creamy beetroot gnocchi with black beer breadcrumbs, daikon cream and horseradish. For the views, he recommends taking the Pralongiá chairlift (open in the summer months), where visitors to Rifugio Punta Trieste wash down classic plates of carbonara and succulent spare ribs with crisp South Tyrolean wines. Those staying in Cortina would be wise to curl up in the sheepskin chairs of El Camineto for casunziei and a louche terrace scene, with the dazzlingly beautiful rural backdrop.
For a family-run agriturismo, Maso Runch Farm is a knockout - it looks like something out of a Brothers Grimm fairytale, with its cozy blond-wood dining room and views of the Sound of Music framed by gingham curtains. For just €46, their six-course tasting menu includes divine homemade spinach and ricotta ravioli drenched in farmhouse butter, and pork knuckle with crispy polenta. Hikers are well rewarded if they follow the path to the Firenze Hut from the foot of the Col Raiser lift in Selva di Val Gardena, where the Baita Sangon Hütte serves hearty classics on its sunny terrace.
Store
Those in the know head to Cortina d'Ampezzo to shop, whether it's for Fendi and Dior, updating their outdoor gear at Cooperativa department store or stocking up on cured meats, Alpine berry jam and honey at Moe Fausto. Serious shoppers head straight to San Candido, where a cluster of home and interior boutiques hug the riverside - think Murano glass, antique furniture and velvet cushions - and the legendary Haunold hat shop, in the Zacher family since 1560, with its beautifully crafted felt hats and slippers. In Corvara, Val Badia, it's easy to find Tyrolean and Ladin Alpine souvenirs at Boutique Monika, along with beautifully crafted clothes from European designers, though Romantik Corvara is the place to go for gifts and home accessories. For beautiful textiles, browse the prints and fabrics of Tessitura Nagler in La Val, and for a wide range of Ladin sweets and jams, head to Delizius in San Cassiano (you'll probably want to stock up on a few bottles of South Tyrolean wine, too). It's worth marveling at the artisanal wood carvings and cuckoo clocks at Erse Shop, a charming spot in the timeless town of Selva, Val Gardena, and visiting the pretty town of Ortisei on market day (every Friday from 8am to 1am in Via Stazione).
Doing
Activities depend greatly on the specific town or area you're in, although most focus on nature or the simple enjoyment of fine wine on a sunny terrace. Cortina d'Ampezzo is all about the hikes and e-bike tours through its fairytale playground of pine forests, valleys, lakes and wildflower meadows. Leo Trippi recommends rounding this off with a tasting menu at Alajmo Cortina , or for something really special they can organise a 15-minute panoramic flight, landing at a Rifugio in the Cinque Torri area where a local sommelier will take clients through some of the region's finest wines, followed by lunch.
As for hiking, the 10km Tre Cime di Lavaredo loop, which starts at Rifugio Auronzo, is heart-stoppingly beautiful, with a World War II tunnel system to explore along the way, as is the path to the crystal-clear Lago di Sorapis. And for minimum effort with maximum reward, the Tofana di Mezzo hike from Cortina D'Ampezzo is a brutally short trail with some of the most stunning views of the jagged peaks and emerald valleys around.
Cyclists can take a maze of trails through dense pine forests and along mirror-smooth lake shores, depending on their starting point, and there are stables throughout the Dolomites, such as Farm Unterlanzin, for picturesque horseback rides through wildflower meadows. The Dolomites are dotted with medieval towns, such as postcard-perfect Ortisei and Cortina d'Ampezzo. They bear the legacy of Austro-Hungarian rule, some more flamboyantly Nutcracker-style than others, such as Merano. This candy-shaded town sits smugly in its Mediterranean microclimate, where giant palms tickle blush-pink walls and guests sunbathe in gardens, fountains trickle and distant mountain peaks scrape the clouds.
It's also worth checking out any festivals taking place, such as the Val Gardena Folklore Festival in Ortisei (4 August), where dancing and processions offer a glimpse into the ancient soul of the Dolomites.
