The last time my husband and I went skiing together, our biggest concern was finding the best April e s-ski bar. Ten years have passed and with a six and three year old in tow, our holiday priorities have changed.
For any parent embarking on their first family ski holiday, the biggest fear is that your children won't like the sport and you risk spending thousands of euros to spend a week in a Hungry Frogs chalet. To combat both fears, we looked for an affordable short-distance destination that offers both practice slopes and advanced challenges. We were surprised when we found the answer in Poland.
Little known to the majority of British skiers, Zakopane is a famous and beloved ski resort among Poles, situated on the mountainous border with Slovakia. Independent British Snomads, which has gained traction for tailor-made ski holidays in Bulgaria, has launched holidays to equally budget-friendly Zakopane in a bid to broaden its appeal.
As a couple we were already fans of the Eastern European country, having enjoyed city breaks there, and the promise of top quality skiing at a fraction of the price of the Alps was too good to pass up.
A local resort
The transfer from Krakow to our chalet took just two hours - the children were fascinated as we climbed winding roads through the Tatra Mountains, past snow-covered forests and traditional wooden houses glowing in the night sky. Upon arrival, our hosts Maks and Rosie served us deliciously Pierogi (Polish dumplings) and cold beer. The chalet was simple but exuded a cozy charm - unlike the alternatives in the Alps we had a garden with a tree house where the children could play and build snowmen.
Zakopane is wonderfully unpretentious and proudly Polish. The locals were just as surprised to hear British voices on the slopes as we were the only ones there. "What are you DIY ink here?" a friendly snowboarder asked us at the chairlift one morning. That's not to say they weren't happy to see us: we found everyone extremely polite, charming and friendly to the kids.
The story continues
And it was a real bargain. A Tatry Super Ski Pass, which covers pistes in both Zakopane and Slovakia, costs £29 per day - half the typical cost of an Alpine ski pass. Our private ski lessons at WoMaski, booked through Snomads, cost £135 for three hours and equipment hire only cost us £15 per day; £8 for the children.
Eating out was also a bargain: the menus were delicious and always of good quality. In traditional local inns, a meal for four with drinks and desserts costs around £30. As well as child-friendly dishes, including pizzas and chicken schnitzels, we enjoyed authentic Polish mountain dishes, such as soups, tater tots with goulash, sausages and dumplings - all in epic portions. A beer, in a prime spot on the deck of Leśniczówka Resto Bar, cost £3 and became a firm favourite.
Parental enlightenment
There is no denying that the low prices take the pressure off parents. "If you did a package with kids and they hated it, you'd be so fed up with it," said an Irish mother I met while taking the kids on a sleigh ride. "I like that you can see how you're doing here, and there are lots more activities for them if they want to take a break [from skiing]."
In addition to ice skating, an ice maze and tobogganing, there are thermal spas all over town - an affordable way to spend an afternoon off the slopes. We visited Zakopane Aqua Park, which has slides, waves, a lazy river and a large outdoor spa. Alternatively, if you're staying in a chalet, most hotels offer visitor passes for their pool and spa facilities - it's incredibly easy to save money on every occasion.
When it came to skiing, there was a handy nursery slope next to our chalet, but the kids' favorite spot was Maleciche, a 10-minute drive away. It had a beginner's section with no crowd and within a few days our daughter was able to ski down the blue slope with us.
Another area we explored was Kasprowy Wierch, one of the highest mountains in Poland and home to snow-sure slopes at 1,987 metres. From the upper gondola stations it is possible to enjoy beautiful views of the most majestic peaks of Poland and Slovakia. My husband and I took turns down the freeride trails, a spectacular three-mile descent through forests and along bubbling streams, while the kids watched skiers hike along the ridge before embarking on a death-defying descent from the summit.
Insider information
What's the catch? The ski area in Zakopane is smaller than the average Alpine resort and the season is short due to its relatively low location. During the week we visited in February, like most European ski resorts last winter, the weather was disappointingly mild, leading to muddy conditions on the slopes. However, thanks to the excellent snow cover on the higher slopes, we were not deterred. The forecast for the following week was perfect: heavy snow, blue skies and freezing temperatures.
The slopes in Zakopane are also inconsistent, requiring planning and taxi rides for most visitors. However, with the services of Snomads we were able to explore the entire area with ease.
The company was founded in 2012 by a group of friends with a passion for skiing. They offer chalets in unusual destinations and personalized trips led by expert local guides.
Our host Maks was born in Great Britain to Polish parents and learned to ski as a child in Zakopane. His knowledge of the area helped us plan each day to perfection - he was instrumental in booking transfers, lessons and passes and recommending local restaurants. He also, as if by magic, provided a home-baked cake every day for when we stumbled in from the slopes. The concierge-like service completed our visit to this lesser-known destination.
Essentials
Snomads are offering a week's stay in their Stardust Chalet for £300 per adult, £255 per child. Prices include breakfast daily and a two-course meal on two nights, airport transfers and daily shuttle to the slopes. British Airways offers flights from London to Krakow from £72 return.
