MILAN - Call it Milan Custom made Week. The Spring 2025 presentations held here last week showcased a range of sartorial codes, from new proportions to glittering embellishments. WWD rounded up seven tailored takes - one for each day of the week.
Brioni
When executive design director Norbert Stumpfl officially introduced the La Donna womenswear line earlier this year, he said he wanted Brioni's men's and women's wear to be on the same level. He reiterated the concept during the brand's spring presentation, which showed how he's slowly opening up to more feminine textures and shapes rather than simply adapting men's codes for a women's fit.
More from WWDThe brand's next-level fabrics-from lightweight wools to high-performance silks and crepes-were deployed to deliver lightness and movement in effortless, roomy silhouettes, as seen in a silk trench coat, a caban coat cut in a couture-esque A-line, or the way Stumpfl opened up the sides of a tailored coat for added ease. Classic suits and blazers had an effortless appeal, but Stumpfl also experimented with bolero versions, whose graphic, cropped proportions contrasted with the overall elongated silhouettes and marked "a big change for us," as he put it.
Other standout pieces included a statement black evening jacket covered in 8,000 tiny crystals, hand-knotted with silk thread, in a nod to the first gesture in tailoring. The technique was replicated in an extra-long cream-colored dinner jacket that deserved to be on the red carpet.
Blaze Milan
The city's coolest girls, Corrada Rodriguez d'Acri, Delfina Pinardi and Maria Sole Torlonia, who recently opened their first flagship store in Milan, have expanded their fashion universe for spring 2025. The collection is based on natural colours, from butter and hazelnut to muted pink and coral. The collection features both tailoring in new proportions and flowy separates, such as leopard-print dresses, slip dresses and flowing sarong-like skirts. These completed the looks and focused on warmer temperatures.
Highlights included the Shamo bolero jacket and matching Appaloosa mini skirt, both crafted from Gipsy Moth fabric for a raffia-esque effect and resulting in a youthful overall look that could be worn both day and night. The same cropped fit also appeared in a chocolate-hued version with white profiles that was utterly chic. The same goes for a statement suit covered in butter-colored sequins and featuring contrasting detailing to emphasize the collarless shape of the jacket and the brand's signature half-moon Smiley pockets.
Kiton
The first ten years of presentations at Palazzo Kiton in Milan were celebrated with an evening event. The mood was cheerful, as Maria Giovanna Paone, creative director of the womenswear department, continues to build the segment each season. For spring, she spoke of the pleasure of travel, but also of coming home. In fact, Kiton's Neapolitan tradition was there, with its perfectly tailored double-breasted suits, though softer on the body, mixed with impressions gained from travels around the world, including the bold brushstrokes on the soft silk obi-like sleeveless dress.
Massimo Alba
Known for his soft colours, fabrics and tailoring, Massimo Alba sees his clothes as timeless, ageless and trendless, and wants people to feel "good and comfortable" in them. His latest collection featured a double-breasted linen peacoat in mellow cream, and a long and lightweight linen topcoat in a similar shade.
Alba argued that the coat could be worn just as well on the beach - over a swimsuit - as over a summer dress. Other key looks in his collection included sheer, striped tops that could also be worn on the beach, and crinkled linen pants in various shades.
Eleventy
Eleventy continued to build its tailoring proposition around soft, relaxed silhouettes - the feminine suit came in more formal single-breasted variations paired with roomy, pleated trousers and knitted undergarments or in inventive combinations of belted trousers and sleeveless dusters, the latter offering a new alternative to blazers. Paired with a tonal silk blouse, a mauve-pink double-breasted jacket added an intriguing twist to sartorial khaki trousers, while versatile lightweight linen blazers were styled with casual cargo trousers or over contrasting cardigans for a modern take on the three-piece suit. The brand, which recently signed a men's capsule collection for Holt Renfrew, worked to round out its womenswear proposition, which currently generates between 25 and 30 percent of global sales, by adding touches of Lurex to eveningwear designs, a developing category that included seductive slip dresses.
Sa Su Phi
At Sa Su Phi, founders Sara Ferrero and Susanna Cucco celebrated female leadership, "and all the women who make a difference." This empowerment didn't exclude femininity, as they showed fluid and soft dresses, but also deconstructed suits, with knits as the common denominator the brand first launched with two years ago. The suit, they say, is a tool for self-expression, often worn with cashmere or silk knits for a more relaxed look. Pants and skirts were made from menswear fabrics, but nothing was restrictive. Power can be comfortable, too.
Sloops
Soft tailoring expert Slowear is expanding its womenswear offering, which is now being created alongside its menswear offering. The brand's store in Forte dei Marmi, on the Tuscan coast, is one of the first to present both collections together. "It's one world in one space," says Piero Braga, the brand's CEO.
Highlights included a pastel pink work coat and a range of double-breasted jackets in traditional menswear fabrics such as pinstripe, herringbone and check, worn with tailored shorts or trousers. There was also more casual wear, in the form of cotton khaki and field jackets and a belted shantung style that was as easy as a dressing gown.
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