One of the most spread buzzwords in menswear lately is the "unstructured jacket". Many men have heard about it, most have probably even worn one or more without knowing it's an unstructured jacket, and yet, most guys you ask couldn't probably define what an unstructured jacket is and why one should wear one.
Unstructured jackets are a response to classic jackets from the early 20 th century, which featured some so-called "structural" elements such as heavy linings, shoulder pads and chest canvases. As the 1970s came along with a more relaxed style, jackets started losing their "structural" elements and became more relaxed having few or none of these features.
Many jackets today don't feature a heavy lining anymore. Generally, a well-designed jacket has a little lining, placed at the upper back and the shoulder. This is meant to give the jacket shape and to make it slide on and off quite easily. Some jackets still feature a full lining, but, unlike old-school linings, modern ones are very soft and you'll barely notice they're there.
Older jackets used to have a canvas under the chest of the piece. This has its purpose, namely to help the jacket mold on your shape over time, thus making it seem tailored to your body and adding structure to it, and to keep the fabric wrinkle-free, but more modern jackets either have a lighter, more flexible lining that you won't really notice, or no canvas at all. Fabrics today have changed from the past, and are smoother and more adaptable overall, which makes the need for chest canvas less necessary.
A few decades ago, shoulder pads were a big thing, but today, it's unlikely that you'll see a blazer with shoulder pads. This is more of a good thing than a bad one: clothes in general are meant to be made in a way that fits your body and makes you feel relaxed and comfortable in them, not to add heavy bulk. Also, the lack of shoulder pads pushes designers and clothes makers to make better clothes that fit the wearers without artifice, which takes the fashion world to a different level. And, in the end, in fashion, it is always best to work with what you have and make the best of it.
Moreover, because they lack all the "structural" elements, you won't get to hot in them, as they are lightweight and highly breathable. Their light weight and uncomplicated design also makes them easy to pack for trips.
Unstructured blazers or dress jackets are a great choice for casual or more formal occasions; they flatter the body's natural lines and make you look sleek and polished.
This is why, investing in such a jacket is a great step to upgrading your style a few steps and having a great sartorial experience, which is something that will impact not only your outside, but your inside as well.
Fraquoh and Franchomme
Further reading:
Are double breasted jackets still in style? The guide to the Nehru jacket The jacket buttons rule Wearing a blazer and shirt combination: A guide The guide to wearing a blazer with jeans A history of the suit: Part 1: 1900s - 1950s A history of the suit: Part 2: 1960s - Mid 2010s 12 essential suit rules The different types of suit fits The guide to casual suits 10 quick things to look for in a suit Creating proportions: Lapels, ties and collars Can you wear a backpack with a suit? The 3 rules of wearing a colorful suitP.S. We want to hear from you! Do you wear unstructured jackets? Which type do you prefer: structured or unstructured? Why? Share your feedback, questions or thoughts in the comments below! For more articles on style, fashion tips and cultural insights, you can subscribe to Attire Club via e-mail or follow us on Facebook, Twitter or Instagram!
