While Switzerland is synonymous with picture perfect, idyllic villages, rolling hills, lush meadows and snow capped mountains, it is also known for its cattle processions, Alpine festivals and traditional dance and music. These customs are tied to seasons and are intrinsically associated with Alpine farm life. The region of Appenzell is rooted in such traditions and one amongst them is Silvesterchlausen which is celebrated here twice annually.
I happened to witness this festival when I visited the village in Urnäsch in the canton of Appenzell Ausserrhoden. Urnäsch is about 55 miles from Zurich and forms for an insightful day trip from the city.
Silvesterchlausen is a unique tradition wherein the men and boys of the town walk around in groups all around town wear colourful masks, traditional robes, characteristic head dresses and cow bells. The groups move from house to house yodelling and wishing people a happy new year. This tradition is celebrated on New Year’s Eve according to both the Gregorian and the Julian calendar which is on 31-December and 13-January respectively. The custom dates back to the 17th century and there are various theories on the significance of this tradition. While some relate it to fertility, others relate it to warding off evil spirits.
There are three types of Silvesterchläus which are the “Schöne” (the “beautiful), “Wüeschte” (the ugly) and “Schö-Wüeschte” (the beautifully ugly). The beautiful Silvesterchläus wear pretty, brightly-coloured, traditional outfits and ornate hats and bonnets that are decorated with pearls and other ornaments. . The beautifully ugly Silvesterchläus wear cloaks that are covered with natural elements like wood carvings, pine cones, lichens and shells. The ugly Silvesterchläus bear a distinctly terrifying look with their masks made up of animal teeth and cow horns.
Each group which normally has about six people is called a “Schüppel” and consists of a couple of “Rolli” and several “Schelli”. The latter carry one or two large cow bells round their necks while the “Rolli” also called the “Rolliwiiber”, wear anywhere between 8 and 13 bells that are fastened on leather straps like braces.
These bells are very, very heavy and are physically demanding; hence Silvesterchlausen is predominantly a male custom. The role of the women is limited to getting the hats and bonnets ready. As they reach the houses, each group stands in a circle and sing a few “Zäuerli” which are essentially yodelling songs without any lyrics. Periodically they sway their bells in a vigorous yet rhythmic manner. At the end, they are offered mulled wine or apple juice and some money. After the houses, the groups even visit the shops of the town before they call it a day by evening.
If you want to learn more about these customs, the Appenzeller Brauchtumsmuseum forms for an insightful visit. It houses a wealth of information related not only to Silvesterchlausen but also other unique customs like the Bloch, the Alpfahrt and other cattle related festivals.
A detailed version of this article was originally published in The Khaleej Times.
